Looking down onto the street from our balcony at the "Otel Polat". Ozgur and I left the Erzurum region of eastern Turkey a few days ago and are now in Istanbul visiting her sisters. Comparatively -- with 30 times the population -- Istanbul is a complete zoo. We're both missing Erzurum in many ways. We miss the relaxed atmosphere of the place, the friendly people, the great food, the cool mountain air, and the clean air and water.