Since we'd never managed to find a spice shop we liked in Fez or Marrakesh, our guide asked around Essaouira and found a "serious" spice shop that normally caters to locals. After winding through narrow streets back towards the fish market, we sat in a shop that was so small it could barely be called a shop. There was hardy room for the three of us in there at the same time. The keeper was very nice and kindly doled out 3 grams of Moroccan saffron (120 dirhams), 50 dirhams worth of cinnamon, and 50 dirhams worth of cumin.