We stumbled groggily out of our hotel in Gyeongju at four in the morning, following our host into a blustery morning. We drove up the mountain in the dark, hoping to walk up to Seokguram Grotto and see an ancient Buddha while watching the sunrise. However, there was no sun coming up in this weather, and the guards at the gate said the walk to the Buddha didn't open until 6:30. So after standing shivering and huddling in telephone booths as the light slowly increased, we headed back for an hour of sleep before starting our day again.