Out of Africa

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Our guides Stephen and Bosco wedged us and all our stuff into the Toyota Hiace and we set off on our West Uganda safari. The roads to start with were smooth and easy travelling, but these soon gave way to what is known as the massage roads. As we travelled to Murchison Falls the most powerful falls in the world where the Nile cascades down to the croc infested river, we were careful to swat the tsetse flies along the way. The falls are magnificent to see and the refreshing spray from them was most welcome as it was baking hot there. After a refreshing drink at the Red Chili campsite we crossed the river to The Delta area where the wildlife was prolific. It was beautiful. As Heather has camped with friends in this area before she had a campsite picked out for us close to the river. Our guides had not camped before and I think were a little wary. Needless to say no one else was about just us and the animals, we did have an armed guard with us [they are necessary in all parks]. So on the way to the site we saw three lions, not to worry the campsite is 100 yds away, 100yds away is the tree where the intention was to make camp, but wait what was that scampering into a bush, great excitement a baby leopard. Mum leopard was relaxing in the branches of our tree and junior leopard #2 was devouring a piece of meat. So after this rare sighting we moved on another 100yds, why go far! So camp was set, dinner eaten and our armed guard was set to protect us from the night. In the morning he reported shooing an elephant, some hippos and a few small creatures away. He had seen the lions but they stayed at a reasonable distance. After this I have decided to exercise more bladder control at night. Back to our game drive and more wonderful wildlife to see including some rare birds. We stayed one night at the Red Chili site, this time our only encounter with wildlife was with the warthogs who boldly sauntered around our table sniffing and foraging, while heather and I stood on the table and GM did his Mick Dundee act. Now we are more animal wise we ignore the hogs. As we continue to travel we saw a wide variety of lifestyles, from fishing villages to mud hut homes. Obvious poverty and tough living conditions. People walk miles to get water from a muddy puddle, stream or if they are lucky a water pump. It is usual to see children with 2 or 3 jerry cans collecting water. Bikes are well used to carry everything from bananas, stacks of wood, papyrus, avocadoes, people etc, the riders have great balance. I will appreciate my washing machine more than ever now, having seen the women down at the river or a puddle washing their clothes and then using the ground or the hut roofs to dry everything. As the roads are so dusty their clothes must be permanently dusty too. The Ugandans in the country must be very fit too as they have to walk very long distances to go anywhere, one guide we had walked 9 kms to work every day and if he was lucky sometimes got a ride home. We have seen many plantations of tea, sugar cane, corn, coffee and tobacco. Small children are always waving and calling out to us, Mzungu [white man], it was upsetting that some kids cried and were scared of us. Must be Gavin's looks! Kibale forest is beautiful. We were camping surrounded by thick vegetation. As we sat by our campfire we watched fireflies and listened to the chorus of the night sounds. Next am we were up early[we have many early starts it seems!!!!] to go on the chimp trek, which took us through dense jungle. We were rewarded with seeing some chimps swinging through the trees and then settling to munch on pinenuts. Ironically we had driven 20 mins from the ranger station to start the trek and we finally saw them 10 mins walk from the station. It was well worth it. On our way to Queen Elizabeth park we stopped at a school as we had some Frisbees and a soccer ball to give the children. We were the ones to be rewarded ,the children had amazing manners greeted us politely, they were excited to talk to us and to touch us. Their teachers came to meet us and the children then sang and danced for us, it was totally moving and I think I used up a good supply of tissues. These are all orphan kids. Their harmony is enviable. By now we have had a few basic camping experiences and so it was wonderful to roll into the Jacana lodge where modern conveniences revived us including the pool by the crater lake. It was hilarious to watch the colubus monkeys antics. The colours on the geckos and butterflies are outstanding. Our next treat was the boat trip on the Kazinga channel. Due to dry conditions many animals were near the channel. This is one of the most memorable experiences for us. It was awesome to see herds of elephants roaming about with water buffalo, various deer, elephants with seemingly 5 legs!!!!!! And the mating rituals of elephants will leave an imprint on our minds. The hippos seem content to wallow alongside the other animals. The one croc we have seen was basking in the hot sun surrounded by pelicans and cormorants. Our campsite that night was above this channel, wherein lies another night of fun! As we set up our tents alongside the only other campers on this wide and empty spot we were told about Maria [not Julie Andrews, though we did a good rendition of the hills are alive]. Maria is a habituated elephant who likes to visit the campsite at times. Along with the odd hippo or two, our guides tell us this as they get into their car to go to their hostel. Now don't worry they tell us, there will be a fire and a guard will keep a look out. Remember our first encounter with wart hogs, well there is no picnic table to start with, just an eating hut and empty land. WELL you can hear lots of grunts and groans from the bush, not us, but them the animals. We are on high alert, but due to another early start we had to get some sleep. 11:00 pm H and G wake to the hippo meandering about our tents, Maria the protector dashes out from the bush to shoo him off and visit awhile. I am dead to the world due to wearing earplugs! But due to a slight stomach problem I wake up and dearly need to leave the tent , this causes some concern to H and G about the safety of being outside the tent, I tell them for their sakes it is safer for me to be outside. So with flashlights waving for fending off and scaring any beasts WE make a dash for the bush. Meanwhile hezzy calls the drivers to come back to us to stoke up the fire and get the guard. The boys come back minus the guard as he is passed out drunk. The fire is stoked, they leave and we are all sitting bolt upright in anticipation of what might happen next. Maria did not disappoint us and passed our tents within a tail swish distance. As this was only 12:00 and we were leaving at 7:00 I thought we had a long night ahead. As we packed up in the am a lovely elephant family meandered through the campsite. Wart hogs are plentiful but we are seasoned to them now. They are hilarious actually. We were treated to another childrens concert in the Bwindi area. These are all orphan children. They are well looked after and are healthy. They are wonderful singers and dancers. Here you can see how sponsoring is a great asset. There is a small community here, they have small craft shops run by the village people and each one aids a different charity. It is wonderful to see how much they care and want to help each other. As we left this rain forest area it lived up to its name and the heavens opened. The roads were rivers and trees fell, the men had to get out to move a tree from across the road. I pitied our driver as he had to maneuver the ruts and potholes. I pitied me too as this was a mountainous road with sheer drops, I totally disowned Stephen our driver. We had a wonderful two nights in furnished tents on the Bunyoni islands, named so for all the little birds, a bird watchers paradise. Hezzys two friends Stacy and Sibyl joined us here. After this we had one more night amongst the warthogs and hippos and then on to an amazing mountain top lodge. This was sheer luxury apart from the 6 min hike up from our cabin to the restaurant. But we enjoyed delicious food, clean beds, water and a pool which overlooked the views. An English couple from Hertfordshire manage the place. We had morning tea brought to us at a decent hour and we sat on our veranda watching a few animals and birds on this arid landscape. So back to Kampala, catching up on washing etc, though hezzy has a delightful lady come in to do that. Hezzy organised a fantastic trip for us. So far the trip of our lives. We have so enjoyed each and every moment. Apart from the few hairy times! So tomorrow Gavin and I are off to The Serengeti and the Ngorongoro crater. More camping, but we are well seasoned to this now. We are meeting Hezzy in Zanzibar on Monday and will be there for 10 days. Lots of swimming and snorkelling ahead, and swimming with dolphins. Lots of spice markets to visit too. Christine, Boda bodas are motor bikes, a well used form of public transport, scary but fun. We love the Ugandan people, they are absolutely lovely in everyway. I wish more people were like them in their warm personalities. So all for now. We are having a great time. Love to you all. Anne, Gavin and Heather xxx

PS for TS, have really enjoyed learning about smart boards from Heather and realizing what an enormous asset they are to the classroom. Imagine how my African pictures would look on such a great screen!!!!!!! Anne [rm 8!]