Mystery Coves

  Cala S'Almunia, Mallorca, Spain
Sunday, October 22, 2006

After our previous mountain tours we all wanted some relaxation Mallorca style: at the beach! Ed's mom still had not been able to enjoy the cerulean sky and the shallow aquamarine waters of the Mediterranean. Even though colder winds had settled, the sun was still bright enough for a warm day by the sand. We couldn't decide which enchanting cove to go to: we had so many options! We settled for a day's tour of the prettiest beaches around the southeastern part of the island.

I desperately wanted to show Ed's parents the beautiful beach of Cala Llombards that we had visited a little white back with our Spanish friend Erea. It was the most perfect example of flawlessly sapphire water to be seen and I wanted our guest to be completely dazzled; as I was.

We made a quick stop by the supermarket to select our picnic ingredients for the beach. I have been watching my weight so I settled for fresh fruit and a bottle of blackberry soya drink, while the Ed and his parents selected sandwich fixings.

We arrived at Cala Llombrads and were surprised to find that there were still tons of German tourists at the beach. For this time of year I thought they'd be gone by now. I acted as a tour guide and led Ed's parents toward the rocky spot I had jumped into the water from. I closely listened to Pat's gasps and exclamations as we came close to the shore. I smiled as I remembered my jolts of awe the first time I came here.

Pat and Wally had a quick swim in the water, dodging the transparent jellyfish floating about. Ed and I watched from the rocks as the water was too cold for us now. Perfect water temperature had come and gone in July-August.

We decided to have our picnic elsewhere so we drove further to Cala S'Almunia. Our landlord had told us about this tiny cove. He mentioned it was Mallorca's best kept secret as not a lot of tourists knew about it. We were immediately intrigued!

To reach the beach there was a long set of steep downward stairs, so we decided to park and have lunch first. I went to find a peeing spot in the bushes and when I came back, Ed's parents had ingeniously set up the picnic in the trunk of the car, as a buffet. It was great!

We had our lunch and with huge bellies, we began our long descent toward the mystery cove. The stone steps went through a small forest of pine trees and bushes; a dark green spot where only a few brilliant rays of light shone our way. We suddenly stepped on stand and we say the tiny cove we had heard so much of.

It was a surrounded by high cliffs and boulders, and the water changed its ultramarine palette as the shore gradually deepened. The shallowest part near the rocks was a light lime color that sparkled in the sunlight while the deeper entrance of the Sea was a richer blue. There was a couple of nudists sun bathing on a rock, their marvelous bodies glistening with oil. From time to time they leaned into each other for a loving kiss.

I stayed under a pine tree while Ed went exploring one way and Pat and Wally took off the other. A headache was growing and growing and I felt the need to get out of the sun quickly. I waited for Ed to come back to start going back up the stairs to the car and some shade.

Once back in the car, we headed towards the infamous San Salvador monastery on top of a hill. Word on the street was that you could see the entire eastern part of the island from the monastery.

When we got to the top, we were greeted by an exquisite monument: Jesus at the top looking down on Mallorca, his hands up in blessing. But the majestic monument was no match for the incredible views. All around the monument were serene saints and angels guarding the skyline. From afar we could see Porto Petro and Cala D'Or and its neighboring towns with the connecting roads we had taken so many times. Oceans of green rolling hills stretched from the center of the island to the coast, where water took over its reign. All we could hear was the sigh of the wind and the high tones of the high-flying birds that soared by.

We headed towards the old monastery where monks still operated an austere B&B and a restaurant. Dating back to the 14th century, the chapel inside the monastery still celebrates mass every Sunday where locals from all over the island come for the religious service followed by a light lunch amongst friends, the Mallorcan way.

Still mesmerized by the serenity of this sanctuary on top of the world, we managed to pull ourselves away and head back into town. Ed and I had much packing to do and chores to finish. Our time in Mallorca was quickly coming to and end.