Bologna - the city of the 3 T's

Trip Start Jan 14, 2010
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Trip End Sep 02, 2010


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Flag of Italy  , Emilia-Romagna,
Friday, May 14, 2010

There is no other good reason for me to be in Bologna other than it is a place where everyone must pass through on their way to Rome and the south of Italy. So naturally, I stopped.

What a surprise.  The city is compact, very walk able and is full of food!  And students.  With a population about 400k, nearly half of that is either students or those who work for the university – obtw – the university in Bologna was the first.  Not the first in Europe, or in Italy, but the originale of the world. 

Did I mention the fooooood????

I walked a lot of miles in Athens and all I got to eat were salads.  I roamed Venice thinking about what to eat and after a day of lots of footwork I ate a mouthful.  In Bologna my days have been filled with wandering from one eatery to the next.  Ohhhh, you have a fresh salami and cheese plate?  Ohhhhhhhh you have a lovely buffet when I order a glass of Prosecco?  Geez, is this included with the room??  What? The university students are having a fundraiser and selling beer?  Go figure.

I am bewildered by the myriad of dried, pressed, aged meat.  Oh, and the cheese.  Okay, the pasta is wonderful – tortelino and tagleitelle.  I am in amore.  Simpatico. 

I can highly recommend this city for anyone with an appetite.  OBTW if you want a cosmopolitan bar, you can find several around Neptunes square.

Speaking of that – how clever are these Bolognese?  When Napoleon B came and destroyed all the figures of the Pope in Italy, these guys disguised their statue as the bishop.  They changed the hat, gave him a spear and put a marble epithet on top that read "here is what-his-name the pontiff and father of our city" or some such nonsense.  It worked. Good ole' N.B. passed right on by.

I can highly recommend the walking tour by Prima Classe - availble at the Tourist Info office at Neptunes plaza.  Two hour well spent full of history, stories and great personal opinions by a native Bolongnese. Especially how to recognize a well made tortollini - by the thinness - near transparency of the pasta - you should be able to see the filling.  Who knew? 

Bologna is known for the 3 T's - Towers, Tortolloni (not the little tortollini's) and, you guessed it, Tits.  i love a city with priorities.

It’s rained off an on since I arrived, and I don’t mind some rain, but this is getting a bit silly.  Firstly it doesn’t rain in this part of Italy in May, second my shoes are constantly wet.  Saturday is supposed to be worse yet and I still haven’t decided where I am going.  Although I love the Hotel Novecentro – with its plush lobby, happy hour, grand breakfast, English newspapers, helpful staff, etc – I can’t see spending the money for another night if it’s just going to rain.

Saturday morning arrived and I still didn’t know where I wanted to go.  I lean towards Ravenna with all her beautiful mosaics, but if it’s gonna rain… should I head on down to Chiusi and hang out?  I was in the line to buy tickets before I made up my mind.  Ravenna it is.
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