Bluer than blue and older than old
Trip Start
Sep 12, 2006
1
53
100
Trip End
Sep 08, 2008
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Wied iz-Zurrieq, Malta
Saturday, September 8, 2007
It took only 50 minutes to travel from Sliema to the tiny harbour of Wied iz-Zurrieq, with a change in Valletta. Most buses in Malta terminated their routes in Valletta, which meant to get anywhere on the island you usually had to go via Valletta. Less than an hours travel time was quite short though, given I had crossed the entire country!
I departed the bus at the top of the cliffs near Wied iz-Zurrieq and found a small path with a spectacular view down to the Blue Grotto, a huge natural arch in the sea cliffs below. Further out, beyond an old watchtower was the small, uninhabited island of Filfla, which was once used for target practice by the British Navy. I walked about 500m down the hill to the small harbour, where I boarded a colourful small boat for a 20 minute trip out to the Blue Grotto, as well as some of the other caves in the cliffs.
The caves were quite amazing, but it was the pristine clear blue colour of the water that I'll never forget. I'd never seen anything like it! I'd read that mid morning was the best time to visit, and even though I arrived a little later than I'd hoped, I wasn't disappointed. Furthermore, I could clearly see the seabed, and was told the water was about five metres deep! Our little boat weaved its way in and out of about six caves, passing beneath the huge arch in the cliff and into the Blue Grotto, which was a very apt name given the colour of the water.
After my all too short boat trip finished, I began to make my way 3km up the coast to my next destination, the megalithic temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra. As I left the parking lot at Wied iz-Zurrieq a taxi driver stopped me and asked if I was getting a bus. I informed him that I was walking to the temples, to which he replied I must go with him, as the temples closed at 12.30pm and they were 4 miles away. I thought this a little suspicious, and decided to take my chances, politely refusing. The walk along the road above the cliffs was stunning in the bright daylight of the mid-morning sun, and as I expected, the temples (only 2 miles away) were still open when I arrived at 12.15pm. Furthermore, they were open all day! I should have known there would be people touting for business at one of Malta's most famous tourist destinations!
Dating from the period between 3600 and 3000 BC, the megalithic temples of Malta are the oldest freestanding stone structures in the world. Hagar Qim and Mnajdra are two of a number of these temples situated in Malta and Gozo, and supposedly the best preserved. It's thought their south easterly orientation signifies a relationship with the winter solstice sunrise, but unfortunately I missed the big day by some months.
I spent about half an hour wandering around the first temple Hagar Qim, before making my way down a 500m path to Mnajdra, which had a spectacular setting overlooking the coast. Unfortunately, following a big day in Valletta, and an amazing boat trip out to the Blue Grotto, my camera battery gave up the ghost just as I arrived at Mnajdra, meaning I couldn't take a single photo. I didn't let it ruin things for me though, and instead spent about an hour wandering around the temple and nearby monument and watchtower, savouring the stunning scene. The midday sun and coastal setting gave the temples a special atmosphere, and it was with some shock I overheard a tour guide saying that the holes around Hagar Qim were for the cover that was going to be erected in the coming weeks. Apparently the elements were causing too much damage to the temples, and UNESCO deemed it a priority they be protected. I was glad I'd made it when I did, as I don't think they'd have had the same effect being covered.
