Around the island
Trip Start Aug 28, 2009
48Trip End Sep 28, 2010
The seaside trail was quite interesting, carved into the base of the cliffs and winding its way through caves around to the Dodong lighthouse. From here there was a fantastic view out over Jeodong-ri, the second largest town on the island, and out to the small island of Jukdo
After some vegetable bibimbap back at my hotel, I jumped on another bus headed back around the island to Cheonbu. Rather than go all the way I jumped off at Taeha, as I had the inkling the views from the lighthouse would be pretty spectacular. A Korean girl on the bus (next to her silent western boyfriend) had a book about Ulleungdo with her, and on the cover was a photo of some spectacular sea cliffs. This, I felt, was what I would see at Taeha. It took less than half an hour to get there, after which I jumped off and made my way through the small fishing village to try and find my way up to the lighthouse
It was about 4pm by the time I decided to make my way back down to Taeha, where I jumped on a bus back to Dodong-ri. However, there was still a couple of hours of daylight left, so I jumped off at Namyang and made for the Sunset Point Pavilion, another steep 15 minute walk above the town. There were terrific views out over the ocean here, and without a soul around I took the opportunity to relax for a while and enjoy the sunset
My boat back to Pohang didn't leave until 3pm the following day, so I rose early and jumped on board the round the island cruise. After climbing the highest peak on the island and exploring a few of the headlands, I figured it would give me a different perspective before I made my way back to the Korean peninsula later in the day. Once the boat left the harbour we were swamped by gulls who followed us for about 20 minutes. They were obviously used to the Koreans throwing food to them, and it was quite an interesting sight. The boat trip offered a close up glimpse of some of the unique rock formations around the island, namely elephant rock and three angels rocks. The best part was the opportunity to chat to a few young Koreans though, who were very intrigued as to why I had come out to the island alone. Two young girls studying biology in Seoul, Joyce and Euniss, told me they were heading to Mukho on a 1pm ferry. I wasn't aware this ferry even existed, and given Mukho was much closer to Suwon than Pohang I figured I could probably make it back home a couple of hours earlier if I went with them. As soon as the boat made it back into Dodong, soon after 11am, I picked up a ticket and found a place to get my last meal on the island.
The three days I spent on Ulleungdo didn't pass too quickly, and I left feeling I had seen as much of the island as I possibly could given the time I had there. My only disappointment was the cloudy weather I encountered at the summit of Seonginbong, although the views over Nari-bunji and around the coast more than made up for it. It was a special place, and I was really glad I made the effort to get out there and see it while I could.