Lots of Cafes

Trip Start Jun 22, 2009
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Trip End Nov 03, 2009


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Flag of Croatia  ,
Monday, September 7, 2009

It is only a couple of hours to Zagreb. Croatia has a toll at the border. You can either pay in local currency (which we cannot get until we find an ATM in the city) or E.70. I provide exact change which they will not accept. They only accept E1 and above and don't provide change. Not a big deal but it does show how they try to extract as much as possible. The city is a sprawl but becomes more interesting as we reach the center.

Figuring out the parking is a challenge. It appears that the first spot is reserved. Chris wants to just leave it presuming we get a ticket. There are tow away signs so I veto that idea. Other parking spots are for only 1 hour and require coins while we don’t have any Croatian Kunas yet. Finally we find a lot for a chopping center. At last.

We find our way to the tourist office who has some great info (you have to ask). We are right at the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary which is a symbol of the city with its twin spires and Gothic design.

Dolac Market open-air market with its stalls of colorful fruit, vegetables, meat, olives …

Tkalciceva Ulica is a cobblestone street lined with renovated 19th-century mansions housing boutiques, bars, restaurants … We have found the core of Zagreb's cafe society. Even though it is mid-afternoon, it is packed with people, generally pretty young and mostly women. We have a nice dinner along here later that night.

The traffic in the city is terrible and the center area is confusing with its trams and pedestrian areas making movement by car difficult. We try to get to a hotel, Pansion Jagerhorn, recommended by LP. We get so far away from the city that we opt to go to the nearby Mirogoj Cemetery in one of the suburbs. It is huge with some magnificent statues and diverse grave dssigns. The wealthy and common folk are buried here with the latter having simple crosses.

The hotel is in a perfect location, right in the heart of the old town. That next night, we go to the hill above us (3 minute walk) to listen to Jazz with the locals while getting a great view of the city below.
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