Goat and boar trump monkey.

Trip Start Jan 02, 2013
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13
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Trip End Apr 25, 2013


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Where I stayed
pangkor guesthouse SPK

Flag of Malaysia  , Perak,
Tuesday, January 29, 2013

We board one of Malaysia's many coaches bright and early in the morning, destination Pangkor Island which is a 4h journey north west. The coaches are very comfortable but ours appears to have a problem with the suspension leaving us defying gravity every time we hit a pot hole or speed bump. When we reach the small town of Lumut, we take the ferry for 40 minutes over to the island and arrive at the Pangkor guesthouse after a short taxi drive. All the taxis on the island are garishly camp pink people carriers, can't miss them!
Pangkor consists of 8sq km of sandy beaches and fishing industry, the name meaning 'beautiful island'. The interior reminds me of Borneo rain forest and is quite wild, lots of cicadas purring away like chain saws and odd whoops and calls at dusk.


Joyce opened her guesthouse only 6 months ago in the rural east side of the island away from the touristic west side. We are her only guests and she takes time to carefully draw maps for us and arrange moped hire. There are two small children who do not belong to Joyce who are desperate to show us something indicating by pushing their noses upwards with their fingers and dancing around with hula hoops in sparkly T shirts. Feeling desperate not to disappoint the girls and equally curious, we let them lead us through the narrow alleys, past houses built on rocks and streams with fishing boys until we reach the back fence of an outlying house which looks out into jungle. At this point the children, who have now doubled in number, produce plastic bags with bread crusts in and along with Joyce who has also joined us, break out into squealing and shouting and after less than a minute, out of rumbling jungle emerges a wild boar followed a little later by her herd. The seven pigs devour bread, chasing off monkeys of similar size (pig beats monkey). What a surprise!

Just before we say a sad goodbye to Joyce the following morning, she produces a surprise breakfast of steamed blue rice buns for us to try which we have to peel first (!). They have a really light doughy consistency and can filled with any thing from meats and gravy to fish.

Not wanting to neglect the tourist side of the island or our developing tans we move west to investigate the beaches. Trip advisor rates the Nipah Guesthouse as the best place to stay and we're lucky enough to get a room there. I say room but in fact it is a detached wooden building with tin roof and two floors, rather like a grown up Wendy house. The owners, Alisha and her husband are so welcoming and helpful and the place is spotless. The guesthouse has a resident hornbill which turns up whenever it's hungry and we have great fun feeding it- not having much joy uploading the video unfortunately.

In the night there is a torrential rain storm which wakes us up, hammering down on the tin roof like a shower of ball bearings. It is the sort of rain that you could wash your hair in and does little to clear the 94% humidity.

We spend a day relaxing on the beach. After cooking myself for an hour or so in the glorious sunshine the sea beckons but it is not as refreshing as expected as it's so unbelievably hot! Can one be disappointed with sea water in the mid thirties? 
 
There is a low tide once a month on the west coast of Pangkor which gives a window of opportunity to wade to a small island 300m off shore. By chance we strike the right day and start the wade along the raised sand bank but quickly realise that is is called Coral island because by the time you've reached it, your feet will be punctured by a hundred sharp barbed pieces of dead coral. The added obstacles of large rocks and numerous sea cucumbers make injury inevitable and we reach the island with bleeding feet and a broken toe. I elect to swim back but poor Jon has the bag so has to struggle back the way we came. On the main road, there are monkeys hanging from trees and buildings, feeding on tourist food. They haven't fathomed out how to open plastic drink bottles so they bite a small hole in the bottom and gently tip it into their mouths. This continues until the goats come head butting their way in - goat apparently trumps monkey so question is, what is the outcome of boar versus goat?
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Comments

Joyce Guok on

Hi Isabel,
Just a short day stay with you, and got not much time to share more about Pangkor real culture and life with you and John.
Welcome back to Pangkor Guesthouse SPK, we have another similar guesthouse opening soon near the fishfarm where you can see the sunrise at the backyard and feed the fish and visit the fishfarm as well.
Keep watch up from the update in facebook page of Pangkor Guesthouse SPK.
regars,
Joyce Guok

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