Final Stop in Sri Lanka
Trip Start
Jan 24, 2011
1
19
22
Trip End
Mar 09, 2011
Negombo, Sri Lanka
Sunday, March 6, 2011
We arose early Sunday morning, packed and had breakfast at the hotel. There were three trains possible that morning from Hikkaduwa to Columbo. Actually there were twice that many, but the first one we would consider had departure scheduled for 7:52 am. We hadn't initially planned on such an early start, but we were ready to go, so why not?
The tuk tuk got us there ten minutes early, we bought tickets for 320 Rs total, and waited in the hot morning sun. The train was about 20 minutes late. We had been told that even 2nd class seating would be gone on this run, and the smart move would be to head back up the line to Galle a half hour, then retrace that stretch and on to Colombo. Really didn't want to do that, and gambled that the demand would be smaller on a Sunday morning. Luck favoured us, although all the seats on the shady side were gone.
A number of vendors worked even this short haul, selling a variety of food and beverage items. Then came the floor show. A slender young man boarded with a leather case suitable for a pool cue stood in the middle of the aisle at our end and began a rapid and theatrical monologue in Sinhalese. After a few dramatic moments he opened the case and produced two metal swords that eventually found their way down his throat. ON A SEVERELY ROCKING TRAIN!!
About two and a half hours later, after maybe four intermediate stops, we were deposited at the Colombo Fort station at around 10:40 am. Took a while, but eventually we found the next train to Negombo wasn't due to leave until 1:10 pm. All this time we had to fend off several waves of cabbies offering to solve our transfer for about $25.
Finally Debbie asked some young men about bus options to Negombo and were told there was a frequent one, #187 that stopped about 200 metres away. Arriving there, we were directed across the very busy and fully divided street, via a pedestrian overpass, to a second collection of buses. Here we got conflicting advice on both location and bus numbers. Directions from a bus driver seemed to carry more weight, and we started hauling ourselves and four bits of luggage the better part of a kilometre further down the road in the unrelenting mid-day sun on a crowded sidewalk.
Along the way I spotted a friendly face. Now this is weird coincidence. I hadn't mentioned a young lady from London named Jo before as it was of no real consequence until now. On our return from the excursion to Galle a few days earlier, we first met Jo waiting for a train to Beneto Beach area. We chatted and told her we had considered that ourselves, but all the beachfront accommodation was five star and out of our budget. We mentioned how pleased we were with the Ocean View in Hikkaduwa, and gave here a hotel card.
Next day we thought we might have spotter her on the grounds heading for the beach, but we were all looking quite different in beach attire and she showed no sign of recognition. The following day I wondered if she was having breakfast by the pool and approached. Sure enough. It was her last morning and she was about to head to Colombo for a couple of days before flying home. I shared my photo of the train schedule from the Hikkaduwa station and she headed off. Now here she turns up again on a busy sidewalk beside a Colombo market, catching her last moments before her departure.
A little farther on, our trek looked successful as we entered a bus station. Again we got various directions, and finally I dropped and guarded the bags as Debbie went bird-dogging. Only a few minutes later she had found and confirmed bus #240 was ready to depart for Negombo. She collected me and we got perhaps the last two seats. The aisle filled and we were off five minutes later.
The trip took over an hour and never seemed to leave the city. It was almost as entertaining as the previous train, this time with a gentleman singing and beating out rhythm on a tambourine. He was actually not bad.
Finally we reached what I assume was the bus station, but that is far too formal a title for the crossroad. The only thing to legitimize the area's status was a collection of a half dozen tuk tuks. We settled on one for 200 Rs to deposit us at the Golden Star Beach Resort.
Our reservations had been made, and we were anxious to see if we really did get the refurbished room as promised. Well, no, none was available when they called. The one we got was a little old and beat-up, but quite large, separate shower, A/C, TV, wifi – but only in the lobby, and included buffet breakfast. While I hated to let them off the hook, it would do, once we killed the mosquitoes that kept cropping up. This area is notorious for these nasty little creatures and, we suspect, sand fleas given the bites we'd seen on folks from here. Reports of Dengue Fever made us more than the usual cautious.
The front desk apologized, admitting it was a constant battle, and provided us a big aerosol can to clear the room. We sprayed just before heading for lunch and the pool. On our return a few hours later, the treatment seemed to have been effective.
Still too full to bother with dinner, we strolled the main road in the evening. Much like Hikkaduwa, only with sidewalks, we scanned the shops and restaurant menus. There was a pretty Christian church all lit up with a female duet singing lovely, unfamiliar tunes accompanied by a subtle organ. We didn't go inside, but the alter area looked quite different from our western arrangements.
Almost ready to return, we came across the Paradise Hotel, originally our top choice in Negombo. Without seeing the rooms themselves, it was everything we hoped. The lobby was airy, well lit and inviting. The staff were very friendly, and apologized for not having any rooms available for us. They are now quite popular with one and two week package tours, especially from Europe. Should you be coming to this area, try to book two months or more in advance to have a good shot at a room.
A jeweller engaged us in friendly banter and offered to change US currency at 110 Rs/$, even for small amounts like $20. This was a good rate and the information was filed for future needs. After getting stuck with extra Indian currency, we wanted to play funds close to the line here. The hotel would accept Visa so we ate and drank there more than we probably would otherwise.
Next day was for shopping in Colombo. Hopes for the train were dashed when we learned at 7:40 that after 7:30, the next departure was 10:20. Should we try the long and crazy local bus again? At the hotel entrance a driver with air-conditioned van offered us a half day excursion rate of $50. This would certainly be a comfortable and efficient way to get through this painful (for me) but required episode. Compared to the original plan of a high priced Colombo hotel, this was a bargain.
Once on board, Debbie set her priorities out. Three shops were on the hit list: House of Fashion, Barefoot, and Odel's. The driver spoke of standard, must-see tourist sites he would add to the program. He began with a shop not on our list and our spidey senses quivered. The place was five storeys of modern clothing, accessories and giftware. Okay, but aside from a few postcards, nothing to entice purchase.
After drive-bys of a few memorials, statues and parks, we arrived at a very interesting Buddhist Temple, Gangaramaya. I was getting concerned about the time and declined entry, but Debbie whipped off the shoes and disappeared with the camera for 20 to 30 minutes. Her glowing reports made me regret not going along, but I had no idea it would be more than just another temple.
Two features outside caught my interest, and our guide gave me a little background. One was a shiny black Mercedes roadster from the 1930's. It had been donated new to the temple 75 years earlier and was still in use. The other was a large, heavily tusked elephant with a colourful history. Some years earlier, in the heat of the rut, this creature had killed ten people. The monks saved his life by agreeing to take him into their care. He was now about 65 and had caused no more trouble. The driver told me that not all elephants have tusks, only the ones of the “royal caste”, destined by heredity for leadership. This was entirely new to me and needs verification.
I won't go into the next several hours spent in Debbie's three targeted shops. She will likely add to this blog in the near future. In case she doesn't though, you should know that Odel's was the clear winner and she could have spent an entire day there given the quality and value.
It was a long and slow drive back through heavy traffic, and I over-tipped the driver for the extra time taken, even though it was largely his fault not following our initial priorities. We were tired and had a beer at the pool bar while planning our last hours here. Also sampled the local whiskey, Arrack, distilled from the coconut. Nasty stuff, but we managed with the aid of the beer.
That evening was pizza night at Sana's restaurant, bar and pool hall. The individual pizzas were wonderful and only 550 Rs each. Actually better than almost any at home, and rivaling the Roman ones we love so much. The jeweler, a Muslim, mentioned earlier was good to his word and changed $20 US.
Then we got into a lengthy discussion with him on religion, morality, political distortions and world affairs. He was a delight to talk with, but we had some difficulty trying to convince him that Muslims were responsible for the 911 attacks. This could not be as killing is wrong in the eyes of Allah. Obviously every side has it's spin, just as the holocaust is denied in many quarters. We countered that this is also the teaching of Christ and one of the ten commandments for both Christians and Jews, but adherents to any religion often have self-serving interpretations and exceptions. I don't know if any ideas were changed, but perhaps outlooks were broadened. We parted on very amicable terms.
One sudden regret on leaving Sri Lanka is my total failure to remember this was the home for many years of Sir Arthur C. Clarke. I just heard there may be a museum here dedicated to his life and works, and now there is no opportunity to investigate this further. Many of you may know him from his science fiction writings, particularly Space Odyssey 2001. He was an amazing visionary who proposed, among many other things, a network of geostationary satellites for global communication in the 1940's.
Next morning we are bracing for the return home. This is Tuesday morning and our flight to Dubai departs at 3 am Wednesday. We have an extended checkout of 2 pm, but will be hanging around roomless until perhaps 11 pm. For $55 we considered and rejected holding the room for an evening nap. After a 4 hour plus flight we face a four hour connection to the 13 hour Toronto flight. There will be little opportunity for decent sleep before landing mid-afternoon, collecting the car and driving home. Maybe a hotel in Mississauga will be the wise course.
Before moving on, I have to say that our hotel is growing on me each day. While our first lunch experience was a disaster, both breakfast buffets have been quite good. The staff have been universally fine. We have met and talked with all levels, from serving to middle management right up to the general manager. All seemed genuinely interested in improvement and customer satisfaction. Any suggestions we offered were warmly received.
Tripadvisor reviews ranked this hotel in the bottom 4 of 28 listed properties in Negombo. We see a hotel in the process of rebuilding and upgrading. I don't think the reviews have caught up, and will soon be left further behind reality in the coming year or two. This may well be a hidden gem very soon. Current rate was $55/night, add $10 for breakfast for two. Not too bad for this area.
