Gangtey Trek
Trip Start
Mar 15, 2008
1
5
11
Trip End
Mar 30, 2008
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Phobjikha, Bhutan
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Gangtey Trek
Dear Readers:
Day One: Today we commence three days of trekking and camping, with some serious altitude gains in the first two days. We get off to a somewhat wobbly start as we learn that the luggage truck has already returned to Thimphu. After dropping us at the trailhead, the bus must return to Wangi to get it. We also learn that because of the upcoming election on the 24th, several of the pony drivers requested have not shown up, and we must reduce the amount of luggage being carried during the trek. Even with all the reshuffling of gear, we are still on the trail by 10am, and it is a steep climb from the very beginning. In fact, we ascend over 5,000 feet from our starting point today! We reach camp around 4:30pm and enjoy tea and cookies in the dining tent. The crew makes a roaring fire, where we proceed to eat dinner under a full moon. Everything always tastes better out of doors, and especially after a day of strenuous activity. Tonight's dinner of white rice, chicken, broccoli, spinach with cheese, mixed vegetables and a tangerine for dessert are fabulous! I fall into my tent by 9pm.
Day Two: More uphill trekking today, but the grade isn't as steep as yesterday. We surmount a pass at over 11,000 feet elevation. Our starting elevation was about 3,500 feet, so that tells you how far we have climbed. We drop down into a broad valley and make camp in a field that is winter home to a herd of yaks. It is amazing to be sharing our camp with these shaggy beasts! Another fabulous dinner: fish, mixed vegetables, eggplant with cheese, potatoes, and apples for dessert. I'm in bed by 8:30pm.
Day Three: This morning we visit a milk coop where local farmers bring their milk every morning and it is processed into cheese. Next we visit two nearby temples - one is only 100 years old, and the other is several centuries old. We start the final leg of our trek by climbing over a third pass, but we are hardened to the climbing by now. We have been told that firewood isn't so easy to obtain at our final camp, so we collect pieces as we walk, and arrive at our final campsite with several armloads. We are camping in the feeding area of the elegant black-necked crane which migrates between Bhutan and Tibet every year. You may have heard about them on the Discovery Channel. Some guys spot a few cranes while I am in my tent getting ready for our final night with the crew. Everybody goes through their clothing, and selects things that they can donate as part of a tip for excellent service. I am happy to get rid of quite a few old clothes. I also meet with the tip auditor to figure out the complicated task of tipping 11 staff members! We enjoy another wonderful meal around the campfire, and then give our thanks to the crew. A local rice wine is served to add to the festivities. Finally we have a singing exhibition, where the crew sings a song, and we respond with a song of our own. This goes back and forth for several rounds, then we conclude the night with a rousing rendition of "The Hokey Pokey" which is a real hit with the staff!
Hugs,
Dan
