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My foodie fans will be happy to know that dinner at Viva la Pepa was one of my best meals yet in South America. Patti and I split an enormous crepe filled with chicken, bacon, mushrooms and cheese, then moved on to the most glorious dessert I’ve had in a long time. When the dish arrived at the table, everyone in the tiny restaurant turned to look, and more than one person said, "Wow." Our dessert crepe was stuffed with apples and caramel sauce, heaped with calafate (a kind of berry, I think) ice-cream and garnished with sugar pieces that tasted like creme brulee. Honestly, if I’d known it was going to be that good I would’ve skipped the savory crepe entirely and ordered one of those monsters all for myself.
As much as we liked our old hostel, the Libertador, where we had previously stayed in El Calafate, we decided to try a new one for the night. We stayed at the I Keu Ken, a name that means "our ancestors" in Welsh. This hostel had a much more laid-back vibe than the Libertador. The main floor had a stone fireplace in the corner with antiques hanging around it, like old metal jugs and hiking equipment. There were a couple of cats walking around inside and even a sheep hanging out in the front yard. Across the quiet street and down the hill, we could see the lake. The only downside of the hostel was its location on the back edge of town. It wasn't a far walk from the town center, but it was totally uphill on a dirt road. When cars drove by us, the dirt would swirl and got in my eyes and mouth. Not cute. All in all, though, it was a really nice place to stay with a friendly staff.