Vang Vieng to Louang Phrabang

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  Louang Phrabang, Lao Peoples Dem Rep
Wednesday, December 10, 2003

The journey from Vang Vieng to Luang Phrabang was, I was told was extraordinary. I was not disappointed. Opting for more expensive mini bus as it was a few hours quicker (I have come to the conclusion that the bit i don't like about travelling is the travelling) we set off at about 9.30 up into the hills. The road winds through the hills I had just spent the last few days floating past heading upwards. It is a truly spectacular ride. One minute you are looking across vast rolling hills, turn the corner and you could be looking at Mordor from Tolkien's epic Lord of the Rings. Mother nature was determined not to disappoint me after the flat landscape of Cambodia. She provided picture postcard perfect views at every twist and turn of the road. It actually reminds me of the route the way from Lusaka to Lake Kariba up the escarpment in Zambia, but dare I say it, more spectacular.

As you wend your way inexorably onwards you pass through small villages perched on the side of the mountains, who I am sure if were placed in America or Europe would command huge sums of money just for the views alone. Although I am not sure if Hank and Sara-Lee would be too happy about the gun toting teenagers at the entrance to some of the villages. These kids are there to protect from bandits which occasionally strike the villages and vehicles on the road. I was assured there was no problem but we did travel in convoy with another minibus for part of the way. I was told this was because it was 'easier'. We passed one abandoned bus on the way burnt out and with broken windows. The home counties travellers in the back seat were convinced that this was the victim of an attack. I am more inclined to believe it was the result of an engine fire (only that bit was burnt) and the broken window the product of a child with a sling shot. The little buggers are damn good shots here.

L.P. finally came to view and we scurried off to find our respective guest houses. Not a moment too soon as when we left Vang Vieng I had kindly swapped seats so a couple could sit together. This left me on a fold down seat that kept trying to fold back up on every right hand corner. Our Laos driver, had decided that corners are no good unless you can get your tires to screech as you go round them. This, coupled with his need to overtake on blind bends and on the brow of hills, left a couple of the other passengers feeling a little bit green when we arrived. I am beginning to think that all bus drivers in Laos are trained by the same man as they all only overtake when the above conditions are met. It also seems that the first person to get their hand on the horn is the one that gets right of way. Unless the vehicle is bigger than you.

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