Paradise Lost
Trip Start
Aug 23, 1996
1
277
561
Trip End
Ongoing

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Back in Stung Treng, we took the executive decision between the four of us and bought an onward journey from the border of Laos to Don Det. We had spoken to a group who were coming the other way and they said that there was no transport. So this was the only way.
We walked a K to the Laos border, and once we had our stamps, the guards again asked for a $1. 00 each. We refused and attempted to walk through the gate, but was stopped. They then pulled out a document that stated that all foreigners must pay $0.50, so we did this instead. Once done, there were a group of guys who told us that if we wait ten minutes our transport would be here. At the half hour mark, we were told ten more minutes. At the hour mark, we were told ten more minutes. At the ninety minute mark, I went to say something, but then the van rolled up, and the four of us jumped in. Half an hour later, we were at the dock, a boat was procured and we were on our way to Don Det. Last time I had been here, there were three guesthouses and two restaurants for the six of us that were there. Now they were everywhere. We found a room, and the four of us went to dinner. I couldn't believe how much change had taken place in six years. To stop the tears from falling, I had a Beer Laos instead. Afterwards, we went for a walk and ran into the German guy, Welf. He was drinking with another Irish couple, Derrin and Edele, so we joined them. After another couple of bottles, I mentioned Lao Lao, the local rice wine. I did tell them that last time I was here, I drank some on my first night and ended up throwing up everywhere. Welf, thought this was a good thing, so we all had one, and that killed the rest of the night.
Beer Lao's Drunk - 3
Beer Lao's Total - 3
Once breakfast was finished, Lucy had arranged to meet Welf at ten as we were going to go bicycling around Don Det and Don Khone. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that previously, there were no pushies, motorbikes or four wheeled vehicles. These were all here now !!! Welf, was hungover and still stinking like a brewery, so we grabbed the bikes and set off. As much as there had been loads of changes, the island still had its real relaxed feel. We rode over old bridges built out of the old railway line, and also over the old bridge which connected the two islands together. Lucy and Welf wanted to see the old trains sitting in the trees, and when we riding, one appeared. They had removed all the old trees from around it, and also removed one of the old engines. It looked very strange, but the way the prices had risen since I had last been here, we could see them building a house over it and charging people to look at it !!! We followed the old track until we came to a t-junction. Welf was feeling bad as he was so hungover and the beer was coming out through his pores, so we went left as the LP said that the road was bad going right. It's funny how their maps are so shit, because we encountered parts of the track which were not there and old dodgy bridges had been built out of the old lines again. Carrying a fucking heavy bike did give me some brown stain moments. After three/four of these, we found a shop. Water was sculled and then we were on our way. Through the old paddy fields which are not farmed anymore. It's not needed with all the farming of the tourists that takes place !!! We rode around till we came back to the bridge and then headed for the waterfall. It didn't impress me the first time, but now there are shops everywhere and you have to pay to see it. We did this, and there were even more shops !!! So we moved on to see about a boat to go to the dolphins. Back when I was younger, it cost $0.25 to see them, but now it costs 24 times more. $6.00 now, and this was for forty minutes and there is a good chance that you won't see them, so Lucy decided that she really didn't need to see them after all. We rode back, dumped the bikes, grabbed Colin and George, met the other Irish couple, and the seven of us, grabbed some tubes and were taken 3 K's upstream so we could float back. I had done this in Vang Vieng before and it's loads of fun, so of we went. One problem, there was no current, so we actually had to do about 3 hours of paddling to get back. Once back, we cracked the Beer Laos. We couldn't have a late night as Colin, George, Welf, Lucy and myself are off to Pakse tomorrow as we need to move north towards Vientiane.
Beer Lao's Drunk - 3
Beer Lao's Total - 6
It was good to come back, but after the initial disappointment, I did enjoy the island, but I can't help but feel that the locals are raping what they have !!!
We walked a K to the Laos border, and once we had our stamps, the guards again asked for a $1. 00 each. We refused and attempted to walk through the gate, but was stopped. They then pulled out a document that stated that all foreigners must pay $0.50, so we did this instead. Once done, there were a group of guys who told us that if we wait ten minutes our transport would be here. At the half hour mark, we were told ten more minutes. At the hour mark, we were told ten more minutes. At the ninety minute mark, I went to say something, but then the van rolled up, and the four of us jumped in. Half an hour later, we were at the dock, a boat was procured and we were on our way to Don Det. Last time I had been here, there were three guesthouses and two restaurants for the six of us that were there. Now they were everywhere. We found a room, and the four of us went to dinner. I couldn't believe how much change had taken place in six years. To stop the tears from falling, I had a Beer Laos instead. Afterwards, we went for a walk and ran into the German guy, Welf. He was drinking with another Irish couple, Derrin and Edele, so we joined them. After another couple of bottles, I mentioned Lao Lao, the local rice wine. I did tell them that last time I was here, I drank some on my first night and ended up throwing up everywhere. Welf, thought this was a good thing, so we all had one, and that killed the rest of the night.
Beer Lao's Drunk - 3
Beer Lao's Total - 3
Once breakfast was finished, Lucy had arranged to meet Welf at ten as we were going to go bicycling around Don Det and Don Khone. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that previously, there were no pushies, motorbikes or four wheeled vehicles. These were all here now !!! Welf, was hungover and still stinking like a brewery, so we grabbed the bikes and set off. As much as there had been loads of changes, the island still had its real relaxed feel. We rode over old bridges built out of the old railway line, and also over the old bridge which connected the two islands together. Lucy and Welf wanted to see the old trains sitting in the trees, and when we riding, one appeared. They had removed all the old trees from around it, and also removed one of the old engines. It looked very strange, but the way the prices had risen since I had last been here, we could see them building a house over it and charging people to look at it !!! We followed the old track until we came to a t-junction. Welf was feeling bad as he was so hungover and the beer was coming out through his pores, so we went left as the LP said that the road was bad going right. It's funny how their maps are so shit, because we encountered parts of the track which were not there and old dodgy bridges had been built out of the old lines again. Carrying a fucking heavy bike did give me some brown stain moments. After three/four of these, we found a shop. Water was sculled and then we were on our way. Through the old paddy fields which are not farmed anymore. It's not needed with all the farming of the tourists that takes place !!! We rode around till we came back to the bridge and then headed for the waterfall. It didn't impress me the first time, but now there are shops everywhere and you have to pay to see it. We did this, and there were even more shops !!! So we moved on to see about a boat to go to the dolphins. Back when I was younger, it cost $0.25 to see them, but now it costs 24 times more. $6.00 now, and this was for forty minutes and there is a good chance that you won't see them, so Lucy decided that she really didn't need to see them after all. We rode back, dumped the bikes, grabbed Colin and George, met the other Irish couple, and the seven of us, grabbed some tubes and were taken 3 K's upstream so we could float back. I had done this in Vang Vieng before and it's loads of fun, so of we went. One problem, there was no current, so we actually had to do about 3 hours of paddling to get back. Once back, we cracked the Beer Laos. We couldn't have a late night as Colin, George, Welf, Lucy and myself are off to Pakse tomorrow as we need to move north towards Vientiane.
Beer Lao's Drunk - 3
Beer Lao's Total - 6
It was good to come back, but after the initial disappointment, I did enjoy the island, but I can't help but feel that the locals are raping what they have !!!