Modena, Dozza Bologna
Trip Start
Sep 16, 2007
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Trip End
Oct 02, 2007
Bologna, Italy
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Friday morning we set off for Modena. We first went to the Aceto Balsamico factory in Nanantola (sp?). We saw how the tradizionale balsamic is made and realised that we have probably never eaten proper balsamic vinegar. It is an out of this world taste. I bought a bottle of 12 yo vinegar only for special occasions (Michelle) but also some wine vinegar (which is what we usually think is traditional) and some balsamic jelly which should be delicious with parmesan cheese.
We had one of the best lunches of the trip in the garden. We had roast pork (very plain but perfectly cooked) and potatoes with 25 yr old balsamic vinegar drizzled on them. We had lambrusco wine (not so good) but the dessert was delicious dolce accompanied by several different types of liqueurs. I tried Noci (hazelnut), arancia (orange) mandarino (mandarin) and grappa.
After this visit we stopped at the Abbey in Nanantola then went to Modena to see the Cathedral. Apart from Pavarotti having just had his funeral there it is also a very old and extremely fine example of Romanesque architecture. Just been put on the UNESCO world heritage list and I can see why.
After this we headed up into the hills to our accommodation in Dozza (near Bologna). We stayed in a converted old monastery now a 4 star hotel. It was quite nice but the service was not great. It had a pool but I never did swim in it. Still beautiful views over hillside countryside. Had dinner in hotel that night: ravioli, turkey and a mousse for desert. Red wine of course.
The next morning we went to Bologna and walked through the famous food markets. We visited Tamburini and had a tasting of meats and cheeses (including mortadella which is from Bologna) accompanied by Lambrusco. This was at 10.30am. After a wander around we went to Bentivoglio to learn how to make pasta. The old woman who demonstrated was over 80 years (but looked 60). We got to make a few shapes ourselves but it will take a bit of practice (and perhaps the purchase of the right equipment) before I can replicate. We then had lunch of pasta: tortellini in brodo, fusilli with vegetables, lasagna, followed by a rare (for this trip) salad and then Tiramisu.
We had some free time then so Mum and I went to the Morandi museum to see the still lifes. Morandi comes from Bologna.
On the way back to the hotel we had the option of stopping in the old town of Dozza for a wine tasting. Only 6 of us went but it was really worth it. Dozza has a biannual art exhibition painted on the walls of the town. It is a pretty little hill town. The wine tasting was not only informative but delicious. We had the first and only DOCG wine from Italy - a white albana(?), then a Lambrusco, then a very nice Sangiovese.
We had a quick change into our glamorous gear ready to go to Imola (of the racing fame) for our dinner at the 2 star Michelin restaurant San Domenico.
This was a treat. We started in the wine cellar with champagne and delicious little snacks. The wine cellar had bottles of 1928 wine among others. Then we had dinner which was several courses - goose liver and pistachio pate, risotto with lard, others then had lobster but I had quail, then we had veal with a codka cream sauce and finally a desert of apple tartin and strawberry gelato in a chocolate basket. You could even eat the spoon. All accompanied by very nice wines.
Today was time to say goodbye to the tour. We accompanied them to the airport and while they boarded their plane Mum and I took a taxi to Bologna to our hotel. Albergo Orologio is very nice and perfectly positioned near the Piazza Maggiore.
We visited St Petronius and I went to Mass. Then after checking into our room we went to the Pinocoteca Nazionale. Good Baroque (Caracci's especially) and Rennaissance (including a Rafael and a Tintoretto) art plus 13 and 14th century art, including a Giotto. Then we wandered arounf Bologna to chapel of St Cecilia, San Stefano Church and finally exhausted back to the hotel. Even though I had a delicious gelato from Gianni Gelateria we will be going to dinner shortly..
