Did you mean no, or no, it was yes?

Trip Start Aug 28, 2006
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Trip End Aug 31, 2007


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Flag of Bulgaria  ,
Friday, May 18, 2007

Bulgaria is a place I have always thought about since I was little.  I am not sure why, maybe it was because I collected those madame alexander dolls from around the world and was fascnated by the doll with the flowers and ribbons on its head.  I was also always curious about the whole head shaking business and if it was really true that no meant yes.  Well, Kimby and I managed to see alot of it and I am pretty sure I have it out of my system.  After arriving so exhausted we sort of made a game plan to get us around to the highlights and get Kimby back to her plane on time.
We ended up in kind of a flop house in sofia the first night, but found a really cute little restaurant by chance and one of the first of many shopska salads (cucs, tomatoes, and shredded white cheese)  We zoomed out the next day to a great place that I can't spell right now, Koprishitistva,.  A beautiful village full of old historic houses.  We strolled, ate shopska salads at smoky restaurants (everybody here smokes except small children) and had a really cute blue room.  headed out the next day for Plovdiv.  It was POURING rain, but we were brave, put on shorts and sandals and went out to see stuff.  It was just too much, so we gave up, went out for chinese food and a movie.  Typical theatre experience, it was a huge old place, full of empty coat racks and grand staircases and a lady with an apron who took our ticket to go into a little side room to see The Shooter.  We did a little better the next day in town, more downpours, but we saw some of the old town and shopped for nice pottery.
We decided to check out the Black Sea coast, headed out to Burgas on the train and then a bus up to Nessabar.  We felt like we were in some kind of warped version of the Jersey shore meets florida meets disneyland.  So touristy, nasty t-shirt shops and all.  It was much better at night when everybody closed up shop and we could see the old town without the mess of stuff and people.  We stayed in a great place, hotel Tony, with a great view and good breakfast.  We spent a day over at sunny beach, which is so built up, rows and rows of umbrellas in the sand.  So we paid our chair fee and just relaxed with our books.  Did I mention that a majority of the women look like whores here?  I mean, when they get dressed for the day it looks like they are going to some cocktail bar at midnight.  It just made us laugh.  The Gap wouldn't make any money here.  oh, and shoes must match the shirt.  and that wierd maroon hair in Spain, it's all over the place here. What is that?
The whole head shaking thing is so hard to get used to. WHy do they do it?  You ask if there is a room and they shake their head.  First you feel disappointment, then you think, wait, maybe that means yes, so you ask again, you get another shake with a little indian wobble, is it Yes?  It is soo hard to know!  By the third shake you feel dumb and realize they have been saying yes all along.
It's not good to generalize about body types, but even in croatia we noticed two kinds of guys, the thick medium sized (usually with no shirt) and the tall and lanky.  Here in Bulgaria it is the wrestler body, they are everywhere, no wonder they win in the olympics all the time.
Am I being too mean?  REally, everyone was good to us (except I am irritated with the post office)
Our next stop was Veliko Tarnavo which became sort of an ordeal. super hot bus, we thought the air conditioner was broken, but the driver just had it off...torture!!!  The town has a big castle that has a big light show at night. We did our wander, searched for shopska salad and just hung out in the room.  We got a taxi driver, (dobre, somehow scheming to leave bulgaria), to take us to some nearby villages for the day, Arbanassi and Tryvana.  did some more shopping and ate more shopska salad (we just love it so much!)
Back to Sofia on the train, ssooooo hot again, the weather totally changed and nobody seems to like to open the windows.  We took in the downtown of sofia, met some nice iranians (just moved to bulgaria) who have a shwarma shop.
Poor little Kimby had to leave so early to get her plane, and I headed off to the north to cross the border into Romania.  I had so much fun travelling with her... I will miss her alot!
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Comments

catsynergy
catsynergy on

shopska!
It looked like so much fun! Wish I was there! XOXO

scooty
scooty on

Hey, I love Sofia too!
Hi Leslie, from one of your new loyal readers! The family & I were in Newport a couple weeks ago, and I tried looking you up, but you didn't reply to my email. Where were you? I saw Dayna, and she told me about your around-the-world adventure and gave me the link to your blog. Since returning to the east coast, I have been reading a few of your entries every couple of days, and I just caught up to the present! And--spooky coincidence--your last stop was Sofia (which is of course our daughter's name). I am loving reading your blog entries, and the last few in particular have been rich with your Leslie sense of humor, to the point where I can hear you saying what you have written. It sounds like you are having the trip of a lifetime, and I hope you continue to enjoy your adventures! It has been 2 1/2 weeks since your last entry, though...where are you now that I am hoping to follow your trip in real time? Bon continuagie voyagie!
Scooty

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