Roman ruins and more wine!
Trip Start
Sep 11, 2010
1
9
29
Trip End
Oct 10, 2010
Vaison-la-Romaine, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
We awoke this glorious morning in Provence, Vaison La Romaine, at our home for a couple of days. Yesterday, we left Chamonix early (8:30) and headed back toward Annecy and then crossed some country to reach a rather dumpy little town called Romans-sur-Isere for lunch. We fanned out to find the dirty bathrooms and local groceries, patisseries and restaurants for lunch. We did hit a homerun for lunch in the local place we found. It was 1/2 pizza plus salad greens. The crust was thin and crispy with freshly made light tomato sauce and a liitle melted local cheese. Mine had local tomato quarters (super red and ripe), great sliced strips (very long) of artichoke hearts and sweet red and green peppers. Bob's had a little local thin sliced ham between cheese layers. Both very good! Of course, we sat outside in the sun.
After lunch, we drove to Orange to see an old Roman theater with the back acoustic wall still standing. We happened upon the French Foreign Legion Army band rehearsing there. The sound was incredible. We sat in the old Roman amphitheater and listened a long while. Very pleasant experience. The weather was heating up as we entered the Provence region. We all dozed as the bus sped us toward our next village, Vaison La Romaine.
Once again Joost navigated us through narrow streets in Vaison la Romaine, but we only came to a parking lot in the new town. We walked at a brisk and exhausting pace (with our bags) up the steep hill to the old town where ancient hotel building is located. This area is susceptible to flash flooding and several years ago flooding took out all town bridges except the ancient Roman stone bridge we walked across. The river was far below us and flooded 12 feet over that bridge. We walked up switchbacks of cobblestone streets wide enough for a very tiny car. Our hotel has a pool courtyard and dining courtyard. Rooms have been somewhat updated. Our room is not large but has opening windows overlooking the town and countryside--no curtains.
Last night, we ate dinner in the courtyard of the hotel (outside) and had an excellent group meal. Even the creme brulee was covered with lavender honey and lavender seeds. Very good! We sampled Cotes du Rhone wines with our dinner. We all lingered for nearly 3 hours at the tables. A lovely evening!
Today, we met in town after breakfast and toured some Roman ruins--very much like Ostia Antica outside of Roma. We had a very cute and very Italian local guide. However, she was French. The umbrella pines and tall cypress trees of Italy have begun to appear. This is a really nice little town and we all want to linger longer. But after the archeology tour, Joost and Chris herded us to the bus to do, guess what, another wine tasting and lunch.
Well, let me tell you all that this afternoon had to be the next highlight moment after Mont Blanc. We drove up into the hills a long way and parked the bus. Then, we were met by our ride up to the vineyard--a small, open red pickup--if we chose to ride. We were in the first load up many more hills. There were 8 of us in the back on short benches (oh, the knees) and Joost started out riding in the front seat but ended up sitting on the window ledge, hooting away. We yelled at everyone who took off walking, poor souls on this hot day. (It was much farther than they thought, we suspect.) We got to the vineyards at the top of the hill and were awestruck by the sweeping view of the vineyards of Provence. Just gorgeous! Learned about the vineyards while walking through the chalky hills to the top vineyard (really hot and sweaty now). My foot was killing me on this rough walk, but it kills me most of the time now. We sampled several wines, toured the winery, and then walked to the lawns surrounding the owner's home for a picnic. We were served absolutely fabulous foods, all fruits, vegetables, salads, crusty French breads, and wine on the lawn under the trees. We were in heaven. No one wanted to leave this hilltop experience. I spent time swinging over the hillside above the vineyards--a wonderful experience reminding me of my childhood when I spent many hours a week swinging at the church park. Alas, Chris had to drag us away and we were whisked down the hill in the little red pickup. This pickup ride was a throw-back to my youth also, when my dad took kids for rides in the back of his pickup. Too bad we can't do such things today because it is fun! The bus was so hot inside (Joost was walking down the hill and didn't cool it down) so we all about died on entering the hothouse bus. It was awful!!!!
Then, we reluctantly visited another hilltop Provencal town (which was lovely but we were tired and wanted to be lazy on the bus), walked around a bit and then we found a tree-shaded outdoor cafe with about 3 tables, a very friendly proprietress and SORBET!! Five of us sat in the shade with our icy lemon sorbet until it was time to leave and we were finally cooled down.
Back to home base and we dragged our bodies from the bus, walking through town and up the steep hill. Bought some fresh herbs d'Provence on the way. Found a great tiny restaurant for dinner on way up the hill. We stopped to examine the menu and were told by local (who was American living there) that it was best place in town. Went back to hotel and sat with feet in cool pool and several joined as we cooled down and chatted in this pleasant shady area. This lasted until about 7 PM--the pool is surrounded by flowers and a stone wall and views of the lower town and hills. Quite lovely. Six of us got together for dinner at the place mentioned and we all had typical food of Provence and it was the best we have had yet! We lingered over dinner and espresso until almost 10 PM.
And now I am caught up on this stuff. Tomorrow morning we leave for Viilefranche-sur-Mer. That is next to Nice and our last stop on the tour. Two nights on tour and one extra for us and some others. We have to pay big euros to mail some stuff home to lighten the load. Many tips from others about time in Paris.
Bon nuit (good night). Jean
