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We stayed at a well talked about hostel, which was clean and comfortable and as it was pouring down with rain we relaxed in the cafe reading all afternoon. That night I still couldn’t sleep so I got up to have a shower only to realise two things 1) We had no running water 2) Justin had been to the toilet in the night....great! We spoke to the owner and because of the power cuts the pump wasn’t working to pump the water to the top floor, so we decided to move out. Smelly and tired I winged my way around the corner to another hotel Justin had in mind (they had a generator) and we threw down our bags and decided to stay there for the next four days. Yes a toilet hat flushes....ohh sweet luxuries! To celebrate our new luxury room we hired a boat and spent an hour rowing around the river in Pokhara, it was really nice to chill out with my feet in the water whilst Justin rowed us. After lunch the clouds came in and along came the rain and thunder again so we went back to the room to watch a movie, It didn’t take us long to realise that about 3pm every afternoon in comes the rain and thunder so we had to plan whatever we wanted to do in the morning, and when the rain came then we watch a movie.
I was still finding it difficult to get motivated for the Annapurna Circuit so I bought a jar of Marmite to fill me with vitamin B but that disappeared within 3 days and Justin wouldn’t come near me because he said I stunk of the stuff. But it did give me enough energy to do a four hour walk up a hill to see The World Peace Pagoda. We had two options, a long walk up or a short walk up and we chose the long walk up. A decision I regretted when the sun came up and was blazing upon us, we walked through a forest but when we came out the other side and had to climb up to the top I struggled in the heat. We missed the views over the Annapurnas because of the cloud that was blowing in, but what the heck we would be trekking around them soon anyway. We headed back down and as we walked along the riverside we could see loads of rubbish on the riverbank and the water was a foul colour, I had read it is polluted and now I could see why. We passed lots of cafes and restaurants and I noticed blackboards outside with 'Fresh fish from the river’ and many fish options....mmmhhhhh I think not!
The time had come for me to finally stop watching movies and spreading Marmite on anything edible as we booked our bus ticket for the following day to Besi Shara. Bag packing was a doddle as we used the same system as before, with 8 more Mars bars and 4 toilet rolls more. We were all set to go, but were my legs?