Lake Turkana...far from civilization

Trip Start May 03, 2011
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Trip End Jan 31, 2013


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Where I stayed
El Molo village

Flag of Kenya  , Eastern,
Wednesday, October 10, 2012

There I was, together with 12 Kenyans in the back of a truck full of food but having a good time. In the beginning we had a little hick up because the police showed up and they act difficult if they see that people are transported in this truck even if it is the only way to get north. The guys from the truck even got cuffed but 15 minutes later we could start the long trip to Loyangalani. The road led us through a lot of bush where we saw some ostriches, warthogs and wild camels. Later on the mountains and desert could be seen in the distance and a lot of colorful people walking around. AT times we had to be very careful because at the height of the truck where we were there were also Acacia trees so ducking now and then was part of the requirements not to get a thorn in your skin. At night there were even some Turkana nomads who stopped the truck while holding their rifles. They want to buy all kinds of food since there is not much in this desert land. After 14 hours of travel I finally made it and arrived at 00.30 at night.

Next morning made plans to go on a day trip visiting some rock paintings and spend a night in the El-Molo tribe village called Layeni. This tribe is one of Africa's smallest and comparable to the Samburu people. The last speaker of their traditional language died in 1999 but the visit was still a nice experience. I ate at some friends of my guide Julius, the El-Molo/ Samburu couple names 'Number 2’? and Beatrice. Apparently his name was really ‘number 2’. I could spend the night there and because it is so hot there I slept outside on a reed matt under my Masaļ blanket. The wind was blowing like hell but I slept well. In the morning got some tea and breakfast and walked 2 hours back to the village of Loyangalani.

The plan for this day was to relax a bit and then later in the afternoon pay a visit to the Turkana villages. However after taking a shower Julius came running to me that there is a car going NOW to Marsabit. A bit earlier than I have planned but transport is rare in this part of the world so I didn’t want to risk sitting 4 days more in Loyangalani so I hopped on.

Practical stuff

-          Only go here if you have a flexible schedule because transport is very hard to get and you have to be a bit lucky.

-          Try to spend a night in the El-Molo village which is an amazing experience. Contact Julius (07331734793) for this. 
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