The Sunset Village
Trip Start
Aug 04, 2009
1
24
26
Trip End
Oct 03, 2009
Where I stayed
Annapurna Eco-Village
Astam, Nepal
Monday, September 28, 2009
Then there's the setting...i dont know how anyone could not feel the pureness and the peacefulness of this place and simply be happy. It wasn't clear when i arrived but i woke my first morning for a clear sunrise with a pleasant surprise, i was very fortunate. It was spectacular. Three huge mountains right in front of me, snowcapped and just beautiful. You really had to be there. And that is what i did for the most part, just sat, relaxed and watched.... the sunrise and then the sunset...then the stars and the moon (as it was a clear night, very fortunate again)....then the second night, there was a fabulous lightning show before horrendous thunder came in as well with pelting rain. So it was perfect for me...had a little bit of everything and i couldn't have asked for more.
Shiva's family, the Adhikari family, is the Brahma caste which is apparently the highest caste in Nepal, oot of four. Their house mad from clay and of course cow shit, was big...2 floors, bottom with kitchen, and storage room and top with bedrooms. Of course in our standards it's still very basic with no furniture, no fanciness but still all that you need to be happy. The toilet was ootside and so was the running water. Shiva was a teacher and is well educated and his sons are very successful with the hotel they run... as well as the countless projects they are doing in the village, medical clinic, health education, recycling at schools, volunteer projects.
I was fortunate enough be in Astam on the last few days of a major festival, Dasain, that is celebrated everywhere in Nepal for 10-15 days, the celebrations differ a bit depending on the caste and culture. It is time for the kids to have time off oot of school and for families to get together and eat. Shiva and his wife welcomed us into their home for the celebration and to share in the tradition. It was an amazing experience. They had sacrificed a goat (a day before i arrived) which is custom for the festival and very special as they are usually mainly just veg-eaters. So of course almost every meal consisted of bits and bites of mountain goat with some sauce and rice. My last day, we (a few others staying at the hotel) went over to Shiva's for Tiqqa, we ate some snacks (deep fried millet doughnut), sat on the floor of their home and then took place in 'Tiqqa'....Shiva and his wife individually placed dyed red rice on my forehead, with some prayer and smiles and then placing a few flowers on my head and behind my ear. It truly was a humbling experience. I was one of my happiest in Astam (and im usually pretty damned happy)...i was honoured.
Trekking back, Malati and I went a different way. We were to stop at HER mother's home (half hour walk) for Dasain and Malati was seeing her father for the first time in 7 years. Malati's mother is a beautiful strong woman that lives on her own (as her dad lives in India). There were a few people there, extended family i assumed. I was welcomed just like anyone else with cinnamon tea and yes more goat. Her best blankets were layed on the porch for everyone to sit on and gather. I took place in Tiqqa again...it was again done by the two heads of the family, mom and dad (anyone can do tiqqa though). Then I just sat there almost in awe of the experience and taking everything in...their family, their culture, their ways. It's so different in many ways but the basis is very much the same, family, food, love, laughing, and open-heartedness. I was so happy. I had to ask Malati's mom as we were leaving if i could take one picture of her. She of course obliged with ease but not before taking 10 minutes with the assistance of other women to adjust her sari, to fix her hair, check her shoes. It was sooo cute and funny. I was thinking a natural picture but we were now preparing for a formal posed portrait, with her husband..standing completely straight, side by side, hands at the side. I managed to click one afterwards withoot her posing. Apparently she was sooo happy to have her picture taken, not only of herself but with her husband who she hadn't seen in years either as she is always alone. I think Astam is calling me to return at some point in many ways and one of those being to get that photo to 'mom'.
It was then just an hour walk back down to a town where we could get a bus/taxi to return to Pokhara (walking was way too far). The hour walk was straight down literally, down steep rock steps. There were many people on the steps making their way up or down, coming from or going to home or family's home, all dressed up for Dasain.....this is normal of course for them. This is nepal. My few days, my experience felt so surreal. You ask, you shall receive - a true Nepali cultural experience....in every way. Thank you.
Comments
hello there.
hope you don't mind me posting but i was in nepal a couple years ago now and stayed with malati and her family. i adore them. did you meet her sister goma? is everyone well there? what hotel can i find them in now? do you have photos of them you can send to me. i miss nepal so much. can't wait to go back.
thanks in advance.
Hi there...i dont mind you posting at all. I adored my time with Malati and the Adhikari family, and with Shiva, the father. I didn't meet Goma but think i met the rest of the family mostly...they are truly a special family. Everyone was very well when i was there. I absolutely loved Astam!! A magical place all around. Did you go there? You can find the family at the hotel they run now, Hotel Marigold in Pokhara, right on lakeside. I keep meaning to post my photos on this travel blog so i will hopefully do that soon so keep your eye out. Thanks for writing....i miss Nepal so much as well and cant wait to go back. Cheers!
Hi there
I am currently staying with the Adikari's at hotel marigold. Like you guys I love the family & eco village, Astam. Goma is well as is the whole family. The eco village is going well & is progressing all the time. I don't think marigold hotel has its own website but you can contact them through www.amritnepal.com.
Tracy, your photos are unreal. Regards
Jim
We just returned from Astam this week. We came upon the eco village by chance as we were walking. I saw the sign and after a quick discussion with my group, decided to make a detour. Lucky we did or otherwise i would never have had such a wonderful experience. We stayed overnight but that day we had a wonderful view of the Annapurna until the haze covered them. Also got to know Peter, Anna, Jim and Rory. I am already planning to come back. To me this was Nepal.
Hi Tracy, I'm doing the web site for the Astam ecofarm and looking for some testimonial I ended up on your travel blog. I'm asking the permission to add the link of your article on the web site, and also for the video that you posted on youtube because we really like it.
Please let me know
Thanks
Diego
Hi! Answering the last comment: we went to Malati's in Astam last october, fell in love, and returned for 3 wees in January. They are such a magical family, in such a peaceful setting, it's hard not to remember them and not to feel enchanted forever with their beauty. They are now running the HOTEL MARIGOLD in Pokhara Lakeside, with Biswho, Bednhidi and Purna running it, in an excellent manner as always. When we left they were all fine, and HAPPY as always. We also miss them and cant wait to get back.....
Hello
I did a GREAT trek out of Astam with Biswho and his fab porters. We did the newly opened Mardi Himal trek which was EXACTLY what I was looking for. A NOT so trekked route. Nepal is getting over trekked so this was the right amount of time and a decent hike. I turned 60 on the trail - It was my return to the mountains in Nepal after 30 years . I go to Nepal often but had not trekked. HIGHLY reccomended. you will NOT regret going here. The view is unreal ... You do not even have to TREK!!!
Astam ... what can I say... I could retire there and gaze at the view forever except I am still on the road and exploring every year . It is all so good. Astam is a TOP noptch spot. In fact I hope it does NOT get over run with people !!! it is too special .. and everyone up there is GREAT
nice dada
our village is like a heaven
with eco-village
I have just been trekking to ABC again - first time was in 2007. Returned via Astam, where we stayed for one night. The family Adhikari is just wonderful, we enjoyed the hospitality very much. We stayed in hotel Marigold in Pokhara. Bishwo organized 2 superb porters for us - we are sisters in law 62 and 70 - so we did not have to carry our backpacks ourselves.