...and it took me to Moscow
Trip Start
Sep 17, 2009
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Trip End
Feb 19, 2010
Moscow, Central Russia, Russian Federation
Saturday, September 26, 2009
I'd been invited out by Inna, a young journalist with a sideline guiding musicians around Moscow (including my favourite Icelandic moomin elves, Múm, and pansexual noise terrorist Genesis P Orridge from Throbbing Gristle!).
It was her friend's birthday, so the night began with a surprise cake. Two clubs, too many drinks and a great deal of dancing later, the Peruvian friends in Inna's circle invited us all back to theirs. 'I want sushi!' someone cried. Moscow probably rivals Tokyo for 24 hour sushi restaurants, so we picked up our not very Russian, but very delicious, breakfast on the way. There was no denying it: Muscovites knows how to party. And Peruvians!
The next day was Sunday. I slept.
But that evening, going for a drink around the corner with a couple of people from the hostel, we accidentally found ourselves at a gay night. Given how often I have read about how much prejudice there still is in Russia, it was a delight to see the crowd have such fun in a venue with a fairly mixed crowd. It left me with a positive feeling that prejudices will die away, as they have been doing in Britain, and that Russian society will become more accepting.
Moscow is now the world's most expensive city and the inequality is very apparent and very disturbing. Russia's economy became a big experiment for turbo-capitalism with free market economists drafted in from the Delighted States to oversee privatisation and marketisation. The economy was restructured and assets auctioned off at an astonishing pace. The cultural impact is pretty depressing. Materialism, consumerism and obsession with celebrity are running riot with the post-Soviet generation.
But some are more enlightened. Asya, who guided me around Moscow, showing me a real spaceship and the stunning autumn colours in the botanical garden, wants none of that nonsense. Music, art, nature and her beagle Bruno are her passions. She's disappointed with many of the changes in the city she was born in, and is being priced out of. She seemed to believe Moscow's cultural heritage and the wellbeing of its people are neglected as no opportunity for soulless commercial exploitation is missed. She hopes to move out of the City towards St Petersburg, somewhere she and Bruno can enjoy nature.
But there is still cultural heritage to enjoy, such as the Tretyakov Gallery. Russian art had its revolution early, in 1863, when fourteen students at the Academy rebelled and refused to paint the chosen subject of 'Valhalla' for the annual contest. They were expelled and became known as the Itinerants after forming a society of traveling exhibitions that focused on social realism and nature and took art to the people. Along with the Itinerants were many great painters whose work can rarely be found outside of Russia. Another favorite was Zinaida Serebryakova, whose self-portrait accompanies this post.
There was much I loved in Moscow and it left me wanting to return to Russia. But I also felt its aggressive commercialism, petty officials, high prices and hectic pace made it a stressful city that is losing its soul. A harsh judgment maybe for a short visit and I hope I'm wrong.
