Beautiful Montserrat
Trip Start
Nov 25, 2009
1
6
14
Trip End
Dec 13, 2009
Where I stayed
Monistrol de Montserrat, Catalonia, Spain
Saturday, November 28, 2009
We had about 45 minutes to kill before the train so we walked (and walked and walked) to get out of the train station and out onto Placa de Espanya. We admired the view as it was a beautiful, clear day. We could clearly see Tibidabo from the plaza. We walked a bit toward the National Palace and took a few pictures. It was so bright, we could hardly see the palace, but it was beautiful. Back in the train station, we sat and waited for a bit and then boarded the soon-very crowded train. Luckily, we got seats (hint: board quickly) and enjoyed the 45+ minute train ride. Much of the beginning of the ride was through tunnels, but it was nice once we got into the fresh air. As the unique mountains finally came into view, the train got very quiet as everyone was in awe of the sight.
We alighted at the Montserrat Aeri station (those for the funicular go to the next stop) and lined up in the small building to wait for our ride up the mountain. The bright yellow cable cars coming from near the top of the mountain looked a little daunting as we waited. Once they arrived, I timidly stepped into the crowded cable car and tried to find something to hold on to. Out of luck, I clung to Kyle and didn't want to look. However, the ride was incredibly smooth (no swinging, no bumps) and I quickly determined that it was OK to enjoy. And I certainly enjoyed. It was absolutely beautiful. The fall colours spread throughout the mountains and magnificent valley below us. The air was cool and crisp. Everything was spectacular and I was sad that it ended so quickly (about 5 minutes). I really suggest that you take the Aeri if you can, it is definitely worth it and not nearly as scary as it seems from the ground.
When we arrived at the top, the view was astounding. I really can't describe it. You have to remind yourself to watch where you are going! It was chilly up here so I am glad that I brought my coat this time (it was pretty warm in the city). Maps are scarce so we just wandered around trying to figure out where we wanted to go. We walked around the monastery for a bit and saw the Gothic Cloisters and then the church. It was all very different up here. The main cloister area was very well appointed and bright rather than a bit dreary and gray (though still extremely beautiful) like the cathedrals and abbeys we have been to before. There were paintings and tiles and gold throughout the walkways. We were struck by a very long line leading through one side of the cloisters and beyond. We didn't know what they were lining up for, but we thought we better skip it. We went into the basilica which was spectacular. Again, very different. There was a great deal of color in the sanctuary and everything was covered with bright paintings and frescoes. We found that the line was to go above the alter to view the Black Madonna which we could just barely make out from our viewpoint down below so we stuck to our decision to avoid the long wait. There is so much to do outside and we were ready to do some hiking.
Our next stop was the expansive gift shop and cafe. We hadn't planned on eating a meal here, but thought the sausage looked good and then we were convinced by the calamari. It was a wonderful meal. The calamari was fantastic and the sausage was very good as well. We poked around the shop and then decided to continue exploring before we bought anything. We walked around some more near the buildings and were surprised to find out that some were actually hotels.
There is a lot to do here at Montserrat and we did not plan our time well. There are two funiculars, one that goes down to Santa Cova and the other up to Sant Joan. We knew that we wanted to go up so we started there. We had some time to wait for the next ride up so we wandered down some of the paths toward Santa Cova. (There are paths and trails everywhere and we could have spent all day walking them, actually you could probably spend many days walking them.) It was finally time for the funicular and we took our seats. Wow! This thing goes straight up the mountain (technically, more than 65% gradient up 503 meters). It was a bit nerve-wracking but the view is so wonderful that you just have to forget all that. We made it to the top and started walking the Sant Jeroni trail. Damn our lack of time management.
Again, I was speechless. From this trail, you get amazing views over the monastery, hills, valleys, and even Barcelona and the Mediterranean sea in the distance. Sant Jeroni is the highest point in the surrounding area at 1236 meters, but try as we might, we didn't make the 2 1/2 hour walk. We did a great deal of the walk and were treated to wonderful views, but we had to turn back as I was afraid of missing the last ride down the mountain and being stranded up here. When we got back to the funicular we still had a bit of time so we walked (ran) to the other side on another trail to see beyond Montserrat to the Pyrenees and possibly France (there wasn't a clear line and France isn't really a different colour like on a map so who can tell?). It was another amazing view and the wind was reminding me of our takeoff in Newcastle. I wish we could have done more walking and would love to be able to come back. It was a wonderful place.
We got back to the funicular and rode back down the mountain. Then we did a bit of shopping which brought out my indecisiveness and I had no idea which items would be best to purchase. I chose a salsa bowl from a set that I now need to go back and buy the rest of. We also bought a chocolate coca which is a huge flat piece of bread with chocolate drizzled on it. Yum! We took in our last views from the monastery and made our way to the cable car. There wasn't anyone there so we prepared to wait, but the man loaded us into the car and we had the thing to ourselves for the spectacular ride down. I couldn't quit taking pictures on the cable car and when we were back on solid ground. The place is so amazing, I didn't want to leave. The train eventually came and, although we were not positive it was the right train, we followed the small group who thought it was and boarded. It wasn't so we had to change trains at another station. No worries though, we made it back to Barcelona just in time for the fountain show.
At the bottom of Montjuic and at the base of the National Palace is the Font Màgica which is a free attraction in Barcelona. This is a fountain show (think smaller version of the Bellagio, but colorful) with music and lights. We weren't expecting much for a free show, but thought it might be fun to check out. It was wonderful. The palace was lit up and there were fountains coming down from it as well. The main fountain was amazing. They played all Disney songs that I recognised but they were all in Spanish which was pretty cool. I had a great time and was so glad we decided to brave the pickpocket prone area to watch it. (BTW: we had no problem with pickpockets throughout our time in Barcelona. Our mantra was to be smart and be aware!! Hold your camera, put only essential things in your front pocket, don't carry much cash, and leave the purse/backpack at the hotel if you can.)
After the fountain show ended we drug ourselves back down to the Metro to go back to the hotel to pack. I was sad to be leaving Barcelona but so EXCITED about the cruise that lie ahead. Every vacation should be immediately followed by another vacation so you never have to be too sad to leave!
