Cuba for Americans, Here's the Deal!
Trip Start
Dec 25, 2010
1
5
Trip End
Jan 25, 2011
Havana, Cuba
Friday, January 28, 2011
One thing is for sure: You need to go, and go soon!
Q: Isn't it illegal for Americans to travel to Cuba? How does this work with immigration getting into Cuba and back into the US?
A: Yaas, yaas, it is a federal offense for an American citizen to travel and spend money on an unsactioned trip to Cuba...but you just have to go through a third country (like Mexico) and then pretend that you never went. It's fun! The only thing you have to worry about is if the Homeland Security official questions why you have two Mexican entry stamps. But, the reality is that Homeland Security doesn't care if you have been to Cuba or not, besides most of us have so many stamps in our passports that is pretty tough to actually track your journey with the hard-to-read, smudgy-smudgy stamps. These immigration guys have other, more important things to worry about, like profiling anyone who is "Olive"...so, you don't need to worry about it either.
That being said, just for kicks, I put a $20 bill in my passport when I arrived at the Cancun airport (Mexico) on my way back from Havana, hoping that the Mexican immigration offidical wouldn't stamp my passport(having two entry stamps would technically show that I went to a mystery location for 14 days), but he just laughed, put the $20 back in my passport and said that they <insert Mexican accent> "don't do that anymore", and that I "have nothing to worry about".
When you enter Cuba at the Havana airport, the Cuban immigration officials DO NOT stamp passports, from the US or otherwise(unless you're an ex cuban citizen). From their perspective, you are just like any other traveler from any other country....they are happy to have you in their country to spend money.
Q: Do I need a visa to travel to Cuba?
A: Sort of, but not really. What you need to do is to buy a "tourist card" when you buy your air ticket to Havana. It costs about $40, but is usually wrapped up in the price of the air ticket. You need to keep this tourist card with your passport, and don't lose it...or you can be certain to face some sort of fine. Some owners of Casa Particulares will insist that you give them your tourist card. Dont do this. As far we could tell, no one needs to see your tourist card except the immigration folks at the airport.
Q: What countries can I fly through to get to Cuba?
A: The Bahamas, Guatemala, Panama are possible options, but Mexico (Cancun and Mexico City) seems to be the easiest and cheapest. It used to be possible to fly through Canada, but as far as I know, Canadian airlines will not sell American citizens tickets to Cuba.
If you are going to travel through Cancun, as most Americans do, it's an easy procedure...just not as streamlined as we are used to. When you arrive in Cancun, go through customs, then immigration, then head for the Cubana Airlines ticket desk. If you arrive early enough in Cancun, you can usually get on a flight to Havana the same day. Tickets cost about $340, including the tourist card. You can check on-line for the most up-to-date schedules for flights to Havana.
Q: Can I reserve a ticket to Havana ahead of time?
A: Yes, and this is a great option. Since we aren't able to secure a ticket to Havana on Expedia or Orbitz, you need to use a travel agent in Mexico to help you out. The folks at Divermex in Cancun are the people to contact for this. Send Amira Rosado, amira@divermex.com, an email with your travel dates and she will set you up. Divermex will require that you send her money via Western Union to reserve the tickets, which seems a bit dodgy, but it's legit. I was a bit leery about wiring $1100 to her for three tickets, but it all worked out great, and we had our tickets waiting for us at the Cancun airport when we arrived. Divermex will set you up with your tourist card and health insurance(see below) as well.
Q: Whats this I hear about health insurance?
A: A pretty weird law, but technically Cuba requires all American citizens to buy a daily health insurance policy for the duration of their trip. The cost is between $2-4 per day, depending on where you buy it. The folks at Divermex can set you up with your insurance, or you can buy it at the airport before you go through immigration...but that is the more expensive option. The reality is that the folks in Cuban immigration are pretty lax about checking for insurance, so its up to you if you want it or not.
Q: Can I take a boat to Havana?
A: I looked into this a bit, and asked around when I was in Cuba...I never heard of any sort of commercial ferry to take you to Cuba from other points in the Carribean. In fact, I few people told me it was illegal to arrive by boat in Cuba...although that seems silly to me.
Q: What do you use for money in Cuba?
A: This is a big question: There are ATMs in Cuba, but since they dont work with cards issued by US banks, Americans need to resort to other tactics: (1) cash, (2) travelers checks and (3) Carribean Transfer Debit Card. Keep in mind that if you somehow end up losing your money in Cuba, it is VERY difficult to get money wired to you, if not impossible.
Cash is easy to use, but of course you run the risk of losing it or having it stolen from you. Crime is VERY low in Cuba, so the chances of having it ripped off is pretty low. If you can keep your shit together and not get so drunk you lose your money belt, then carrying cash is a decent way to go. BUT, bring Euros or Canadian Dollars...pretty much anything is better than US dollars, since they get taxed 10% off the top - even before the rotten exchange rate kicks in.
Travelers checks, while almost obsolete, have a niche of necessity for US travelers in Cuba. These little buggers have only a 3% tax off the top (if in US dollars), and less if in other denominations. They were just as easy to change as cash at the CADECA outlets as cash. If I had to do it again, I would carry half travelers checks and half Canadian cash dollars.
A couple notes about travelers checks, though: (1) Be sure to carry the receipts with you...sometimes they ask for it. (2) It is impossible to be repaid for lost or stolen travelers checks while IN CUBA. You need to wait to get to a third country to reclaim your funds. Oh, and by the way, Bank of America sells travelers checks in their larger US branches. They are one of the only banks left to do so.
Caribbean Transfer Debit Cards allow you to pre-load a debit card, then use it at ATMs in Cuba. I didnt do this because it took a few weeks to set up and I didnt have time. But this is a clever way to go as well. Check it out on the web and give it a go!
Q: Where do you change money in Cuba?
A: Most tourist towns have official CADECA money changing outlets. ONLY use CADECA change outlets. You can get both Convertible Pesos (CUCs) and National Pesos (CUP) at CADECA outlets. The exchange rate boards at these places are all messed up, though. If you try to exchange both Canadian dollars and American dollars you will know what I am talking about. It is not possible to procure Cuban funds outside of Cuba.
Q: What is the currency in Cuba?
A: There are two types of currency, CUCs and CUPs. Most tourists use 99% CUCs. With CUCs you buy everything a tourist would want: taxi rides, hotel and casa rooms, food in restaturants, alcohol, entry to clubs and even horse carriage rides. With CUPs you can buy things that a common Cuba might buy, mainly street food. Actually, only street food.
The basis for why there are two currencies could be the subject of a book in of itself. There is an interesting dual economy going on in Cuba with these two currencies...have fun trying to figure this one out. Ask questions, and try to pay with CUPs every once in a while just to see peoples reactions.
Q: What is the accomodation like in Cuba?
A: There are two types of accomodation: hotels and "Casa Particulares". Hotels are expensive and VERY run-down and nasty(for the most part). Casa Particulares are the way to go. With a Casa, you are staying with a Cuban family and eating with them(if you want). When you arrive at a town, shop around a bit for a casa, as the quality varies a LOT. If you arrive in any town late at night...just ask around on the street if anyone knows of a casa nearby. It won't take long for you to find one!
OK, those are the goods. I hope this is helpful to someone out there...
Costs of random things:
1 CUC = $1.25
A room in a Casa Particular: $15-$25 (as many people as you can fit can stay in the room!)
Breakfast at a Casa: $4
Dinner at a Casa: $8-$12
Beer in a store: $1
Street pizza on a sheet of paper: 25 cents
Taxi from airport to central Havana: $25
Ibuprofen bought from state-run pharmacy: basically free.
