Ghosts, Napoleon and the Witches of Triora
Trip Start
Apr 28, 2008
1
17
60
Trip End
Jul 04, 2008
Ventimiglia, Italian Riviera, Italy
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Today we woke up to our old fun favourite – rain. Not so great when our hotel is right on the beach. However, when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. So we decided to go a little off the beaten track and explore the Lingurian hilltowns. Before I describe the towns themselves let me tell you a little bit about the roads to get there. Imagine if you will, a road so narrow that you have to hoot when turning corners in case there is oncoming traffic, and so steep that we ended being 1,240m higher then our starting point. The drive is very scenic – through forests so green they look luminous, and an eerie mist that seems to magically appear from no-where.
The towns themselves have streets so narrow that two people struggle to pass each other. They are almost completely deserted (except Dolceacqua). It feels like you have stumbled upon a fairytale village that both time and memory forgot.
Our first stop was Dolceacqua, situated on a river, and dominated by a castle that once belonged to the Doria family. Legend has it that the wicked baron enforced droit de seigneur on the village people (this is a law whereby a person in power has the right to sleep with a new bride on her wedding night). He tried his luck with a bride who refused him. He lost his temper and threw her in the dungeon where she starved to death. Her beloved husband swore revenge. He hid in a hay stack cart as it rolled into the castle, held a knife to the baron's throat and made him abolish the law from that day. Ever since then, there is a festival held here to celebrate his victory. The murdered bride, however, is said to haunt the castle, still seeking her love.
Dolceacqua is also renowned for its wine – a firm favourite of old Napoleon. So, if it’s good enough for him, it’s good enough for us. We bought a bottle. Oh, just a quick anecdote, when we first arrived and tried to park, the old Italian guy parked his car right in front of the exit, barring our way. In disbelief we watched him walk away from his car. Suddenly, he realised what he had done and came back, not to move his car, but to guide us through the tiny space he left us.
Next was onto Pigna. There is a stunning view of another town – Castrel Vittorio from the main square (that was stop number 3). We didn’t stay in Pigna too long, as the rain came down again.
Finally, we drove up and up, higher and higher to the town of Triora. Like the others, the town is basically deserted, most doors are chained up, and the walls are decaying, but it is surprisingly charming. Triora is Italy’s version of Salem. It is renowned for the witch trials of the 16th century. Many a witch was burned at the stake in these mountains. I have a sneaking suspicion that a few of them could still be about. You should have seen the woman who served us lunch! Long black hair – and teeth to match – not kidding. But, we are still alive and haven’t turned into toads and such like. I really enjoyed all the lore that surrounds Triora – fascinating.
That night we had dinner at a restaurant on the beach – as close to the sea and the moonlight as you could wish for.
