Italy Part I: The good life in Tuscany
Trip Start
Sep 04, 2010
1
23
25
Trip End
Jul 01, 2011
Figline Valdarno, Tuscany, Italy
Monday, April 25, 2011
I left Berlin on April 13th traveling with Grayson to Rome. From there we were picked up by my friend, Luigi, who lives in Rome. After spending the afternoon laying around Villa Borghese we parted ways: Grayson to Tuscany in order to WWOOF (World Wide Organization of Organic Farms) and me to stay in Rome for a couple days before heading to Tuscany myself to meet him. I later came back and spent 4 more days in Rome with Luigi's family, the DiMarinos, but we'll get to that in Part II.
So my trip to the Italian country side from the beginning. From the moment I arrived, Tuscany was a great and beautiful adventure. The nearest town to the farm was Figline. Grayson meet me there at the train station but on the bus winding through the hills and scenic landscape around Castle Franco di Sopra we somehow missed our stop. We ended walking a good 2 or 3 miles along quite possibly the most majestic road I've ever been forced to drag my luggage on. Really serene actually. Luckily before the steep hike up the hill to the farm we were picked up by a local who just laughed when we said we were going to Giordano's place. Giordano is more or less Grayson "boss" while working on the farm. But really he is just a super nice guy trying to live as self-sufficiently as possible and eat the good food that he grows.
Once we made it to the house the beauty just kept coming. We hiked around olive grove above the house, meandered our way through the terraces all around us and made new friends with all the dogs running around. The house is in a typical cottage style for the region, I suppose. Only a fireplace for a heater. No refrigerator, just a cellar to keep things moderately cool. And just one bathroom for four people. But the people at Terre Libre Tutti make it work. Grayson's room is just a loft bed above where the bread-making happens in the bread-making room. It was really nice to sleep up in the rafters surrounded by the faint smell of flour. That night we whipped ourselves a little something up from the kitchen. Almost everything you can eat there comes from Giordano's garden or local farms in the region. Every meal is a new culinary experience.
The first full day Grayson and I worked in the olive grove above the house. Mainly pruning the trees and cutting down the limbs for firewood in preparation for next winter. It wasn't the easiest work, but being out in the sun all day long and working with my hands was an incredible feeling. One that I had missed dearly in the long winter of Berlin. That evening we chowed down on some Risotto that the roommates cooked up. Although Giordano with his language skills wasn't there that night to translate, we made do with a muddled Italian-English mixture.
The next day we were awoken at 6:30 in the morning. Yep, 6:30. Paulo, another roommate and worker on the farm, drove us out to a bed and breakfast actually run by some Americans. We spent the entire day working in the vegetable garden getting it ready for planting. We worked alongside two other volunteers who live there, one American and one German guy. Chatting with them during the work made the day go by so fast. And we were feed with delicious meals by the house. At the end of the day I had a great tan and some sore hamstrings from squatting to pull weeds all day long. That night back at the house we had some "world famous Andreas pasta" made by yet again, another roommate. Definitely a great energy at the house. I say that in the least hippiest-way possible.
Day three: Grayson's birthday. We spent the afternoon in Florence. Florence is a really unique Italian city. Much of it is a medieval town, well preserved, and nestled in the hills of Tuscany. Unfortunately, in order to see any of the art housed there you have to be willing to stand in an hour and a half line of tourists. We weren't willing. But we found a legit place to get lunch. 3 courses of food, wine, coffee, and water all for 10 european bucks. Not a non-Italian, except us, in sight. Afterwards we meandered our way along the river and sat outside in a cafe near the Cathedral di Santa Maria. Back at the house the roommates had prepared yet another delicious dinner of bruscetta-esque porridge annnnnddddd a birthday cake for Grayson! Really sweet.
Day four: sadly, it was time for me to leave that afternoon. We spent the morning working in the olive grove, pruning trees again and chopping branches down for firewood. After a speedy pasta lunch I headed into town to catch the train. It was sad to go and say goodbye to Grayson, but good things were awaiting me in Rome. Hopefully within the next few years I can return. Who knows, maybe volunteer at the bed and breakfast farm. It is the type of place that sticks with you once you've spent time there. So one way or another I'll find my way back.
Upcoming post: Italy Part II. Roman Holiday.
