You want lots of water? This is the place to be!
Trip Start Dec 26, 2012
56Trip End Jan 15, 2013
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What I did
Read my review - 5/5 stars
Read my review - 5/5 stars
A journey up the Hudson River, through small and larger towns with names I'd heard for years, Yonkers, Poughkeepsie, Schenectady, Hudson and Buffalo to name a few, is a pleasant and relaxing way to travel, especially if you've booked a business class ticket and virtually have the whole table to yourself in the dining car. The scenery didn't take long to change from built up city to a peaceful, wide brown river, with forests, lilly covered swamps and ponds, and cornfields hidden away in between them for as far as the eye could see
I took a taxi to cross to my accommodation on the Canadian side, and am still not sure if I should have booked the train to the Canadian station. The conductor told me that it would be quicker and easier to get through customs checkpoints at the border when in the taxi than at the other end with everyone from the train. The American side I was driven through is the town that tourists forgot, and has so many boarded up businesses and neglected buildings it resembles a ghost town by comparison with what I was about to encounter. When you see even a KFC with "closed down" on boards nailed across the door, you know something's gone wrong! (Or right, depending on how you feel about fast food chains...)
I had my first glimpse of the horseshoe falls as we crossed the rainbow bridge, at the end of which is the border crossing into Canada. As it was dark by now, they were lit by blue, pink and purple lights, and even from this distance, were impressive
I'd been warned by several friends who have been to Niagara that parts of it can be a bit "commercialized", even tacky, so was only partly surprised when we drove up Clifton Hill. Maybe it can be compared to a kids version of Vegas, with a few things thrown in to make the adults feel included. The pavements were thick with people, traffic crawled between game parlours, takeaway joints, dodgy looking nightclubs, souvenir stores and more tacky, brightly neon lit attractions than even a kid at a carnival could wish for. I use "attractions" in an ironic tone, as I certainly wasn't finding them so!
My motel was in a quiet street only a few minutes walk from the huge, multi-storey Hyatt, Marriott etc, where people who have lots of money choose to stay. If you're high enough up in THEM you'll have a view of the falls, however, I decided I could manage quite nicely without that in my hasn't-been-updated-since-the 1970's motel just down the road. Although, I thought calling it Fallsview Inn was a tad misleading, as even before all the Multi story hotels were built, the only thing you'd have seen of the falls from there would be the mist rising hundreds of feet above them. The room WAS old, and despite a no smoking policy, the smell indicated that obviously you were allowed to at one time, and the carpet and curtains had not been updated since it was put in place, but the bed was fine, as was the bathroom. I was to discover that the bath drained so slowly that I was calf deep in water by the time I'd finished a shower! I'd asked for a kettle, which had been provided, but had to ask for a spoon, and go and buy a cheap mug, milk and teabags at a service station nearby
The next morning I didn't hurry to rise, and once I did it was to find a bus that would take me to the closest Laundromat. I had decided that I needed to wash all my clothing again, just to make sure I had gotten rid of every bed bug I'd picked up in Boston. I had a mortal horror that they had followed me, my 70+ bites from, let's not forget the name, 40 BERKELEY ST HOSTEL, were still tormenting me. I was slathering them with hydrocortisone cream regularly, taking antihistamine tablets to the recommended limits, and using every ounce of will power I possess not to scratch them. It stopped me from feeling the least bit guilty for giving them a bad review on Booking.com when asked to submit one, that's for sure! So by the time I'd hauled two bags across town (and cursed myself for bringing so much clothing), put it through the dryer on high, then washed it, then dried it all again, the best part of the day had gone. After taking it all back to the inn and hanging it to air, I jumped on the next bus and headed in the opposite direction this time to the falls.
Niagara Falls has had a relatively new tourist bus system installed within the last year, called WEGO. For $7, you can get a 24 hour pass on any of the four routes, which cover all the major attractions in the town area, and a few further up the Niagara river. For $11:50 you can buy a 48 hour pass
Arriving at Table Rock, I heard them and saw that spray rising hundreds of metres into the air before the incredible rush of water appeared before me. The river was a deep, dark blue right up to the edge of the falls, and then just as it tumbled over the edge of the cliff with a mighty roar, it turned a beautiful aquamarine blue, before plunging into a cloud of spray over 165 feet below. It was a sunny day and rainbows appeared frequently, giving me what would turn out to be the best photo opportunities in my entire time there. You can see all the photos and guidebooks that you want before you get there, but I don't think anything can really prepare you for their power and beauty.
This is what I had been hoping to experience, and no amount of crappy entertainment, loud and boozy holiday makers and outdated accommodation was going to spoil that for me
Looking up at them, I shuddered to think that a woman, aged 63, was the first one to attempt to go over the falls in a pickle barrel. Her name was Annie Taylor, the year was 1901, and she had nothing other than compressed air from a bicycle pump and a "lucky pillow" with her
I enjoyed a late dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe after this, filling in time until the fireworks I'd been told were on Friday and Sunday nights at 10pm were to begin. As they exploded over the lit falls, I knew I'd had an amazing end to the day, even if it hadn't started with anything more exciting than washing for hours in a laundromat. The buses were so crowded that three went past without letting anyone on before I decided it would be quicker to just walk back to the Fairway Inn. I determined to explore a little further afield the next day.
Day two, Saturday the 27th, and I went to see the rapids further up the river, some lovely gardens, and then as far as the bus went in the opposite direction
Once back in town, I decided it might be a good idea to see the falls from the American side, so walked up to the pedestrian crossing on Rainbow Bridge. You don't have to answer any questions until you reach the other side, but you better make sure you've got your passport with you, or you won't be going anywhere, and I mean getting back into Canada as well! It cost all of 50c, and is the cheapest border crossing I'm ever likely to experience. There was plenty to see on the other side, and I crossed an angry, churning, blue-grey part of the river that rushed toward American Falls to Goat Island. This is the piece of land that separates the two main falls. A smaller fall right next to the American one is known as Bridal Veil Falls, and you can get incredibly close to them, so that it seems as if there's no barrier between you and where they plunge over when you take a photo! I did lots of walking that day, and the views once again were brilliant.
The final day in Niagara was alternatively sunny and overcast, so I headed to the falls once again, after first exploring a local shopping centre and buying myself a pandora charm to represent New York, a silver apple
It was Sunday night, I was due to leave early the next morning, I'd organised a taxi to come and pick me up at 5:30am, but I decided to stay and watch the fireworks again. This time I'd scouted out a much better position, from which I'd have no one in front of me, and a completely clear view of all the falls in their lit up glory
It's so hard to judge how much time you should spend in some places, I could have seen everything I wanted to see in Niagara in two days, and spent another night in New York, or as I was to wish, in Quebec City. But I don't regret travelling by train to get there and back, as the journey was scenic and a nice way to relax and not feel I had to run around and see as much as I could.
Niagara, glad I got to experience it, but definitely would not want to live there...too many tourists!
My Review Of The Place I've Seen