Day Ten - Part II
Trip Start
Jul 15, 2011
1
11
36
Trip End
Aug 25, 2011
Zabljak, Durmitor National Park, Montenegro
Sunday, July 24, 2011
The SatNav was set for Montenegro, but the fact that these maps had only about 30 per cent of the country meant that it was next to no help, as we appeared to be driving through a desert for most of the way. Navigation was therefore down to Vicky and good old pen and paper. Given our previous experiences with her navigating skills, it was not looking promising and indeed we got lost within a minute of leaving the hotel as we tried to find our way out of the city. Fortunately we stumbled on the correct road, more by accident than design and Big Boy was soon on his way.
However, it seemed that the road forked and predictably we took the wrong one; still in the right direction but on local roads. We found ourselves driving through the most rural parts of Bosnia. We passed a horse balanced precariously on carts, a farmer standing happily in the middle of the road with his cow and as we climbed the steep mountain road, we saw a shepherd carving his wood at the top of the mountain pass. However, we didn't twig just how far off the main road we were until we entered a tunnel that must have contravened every health and safety law in Europe. Vicky had visions of Big Boy becoming stuck in the tiny, dank and dimly lit hole and Danny having to reverse backwards whilst she held a torch. However, we did emerge and shortly after were flagged down by a local policeman.
Police Encounter #1
We wondered what we had done wrong, but it turned out that he just wanted a chat; I think we were a rather unusual sight in these parts. After checking our documentation, he let us take his picture and gave us some route guidance,
We discovered that he had sent us on the scenic route, clearly thinking that we would enjoy the views, but as we crawled along the goat track at 10mph, we thought that it would be dark before we left these mountains. We had laughed at the advice we had been given previously; don't even get out the car for a pee break, but we realised it was no joke, as we literally drove through the minefields of the Bosnia-Montenegro border.
As we came nearer the border crossing, after about four hours we saw two policeman this time, waving at us to pull over.
Police Encounter #2
Again, they just wanted a chat, and we began to realise what a rarity we must be, as well as a rather amusing sight. Vicky added a picture to her collection and we continued onwards, before coming to
Police Encounter #3
This time at the border, They clearly thought we were a source of amusement; Vicky was allowed to take a picture of the tiny little barrier perched high in the mountain region, but was then told to delete it as no pictures were allowed at the border. Danny was told that his motorbike was 'a problem' but eventually we were allowed to pass with no problem. We were soon at
Police Encounter #4
which was the entry into Montenegro. We have never met such friendly folks, as they offered us refreshments and took a particular interest in our trip. Although it took a lot of explaining as they had very little English, we finally managed to buy insurance, which was scribbled on a tiny scrap of paper. Once again reassured that Big Boy was fully road legal, we entered the stunning terrain of Montenegro. Unfortunately we didn't feel very James Bond, but if Big Boy had been a tiny little sports car then this would have been a truly thrilling drive. In fact, Danny had to regularly remind Vicky that she wasn't in the MX5. The locals were clearly in tune with the roads, as they careered round bends, overtaking and judging the roads far more efficiently than Vicky will ever be able to do. So we pottered on our way, averaging about 30mph for the most exhausting but most beautiful and breathtaking stretch of the journey yet. Rocky cliffs hung suspended in the air and the sun transformed the fauna, creating a rosy pink glow as it sunk lower in the sky.
The roads gradually became worse and as it got darker it became more and more difficult to see the potholes. By this time Vicky was behind the wheel and as we finally wound our way down the mountains, we entered a small town and
Police Encounter #5
By this time we were beginning to amass a huge amount of interest and a friendly local stopped his car to come and assist with navigating. Whether they were concerned at the fact that Vicky was behind the wheel, or because we really did look so utterly lost, the policemen gestured for us to follow him and we were off, with our police escort, lights flashing and the path was cleared for us as we bombed along the mountain paths. Danny was extremely jealous that he had not had a police escort, but it was definitely the strangest experience to date. There is equally no doubt that not a single country has yet matched the Montenegrans willingness to help and befriend English tourists.
Eventually we found ourselves in a little Ski Resort in Durmitor National Park and couldn't believe that for the price of 20 euroes we had managed to blag ourselves a two bedroomed apartment. It wasn't the ritz and was fitted out with rather dodgy eighties décor, but we sank thankfully into bed, looking forwards to waking up so that we could see where we were. This had been a drive like no other; hard work and exhausting, but an experience like no other and absolutely no match for an Easyjet flight.
*Watch this space for driving videos - coming soon!*
