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  Torquay, Victoria, Australia
Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Today was all about surfing.  In anticipation, there was not a moment's hesitation from Julie -- she was up bright and early and raring to go. And as if carefully planned this way, this was the best day yet weather-wise. Beautiful blue skies and warmer weather. We were off to Torquay, about an hour's drive west of Melbourne.

After having a look at one of the beaches when we arrived, we headed right to the surf shop to find out about lessons. To be honest, it was me who wanted the lessons. Never been on a board before and had no idea what I was doing. Julie had surfed in California earlier this year and taken a lesson, so she was ready to rent a board and hit the surf.

Lessons all had to be competed before lunch, so we were too late to join in. In the end, I was ok with just renting boards and wet suits and venturing out on our own.


Julie paused on the beach long enough to give me a two-minute lesson, and was off. There I was with my board strapped to my leg, wondering what the heck am I doing!? I am seriously a newbie. It had taken me a good 5 minutes to pull on my suit, and imagine my disappointment (and embarrassment) to be told I had it on backwards. Apparently the zipper belongs at the back!

Julie is like a seasoned veteran already. I was in awe as she could cut through the crashing waves to get further out to the big ones. And get this, she could even sit on her board – ever so casually -- and fix her pony tail while waiting for the next one.
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Meanwhile, there I was, about 10 feet from shore trying to lie on the thing and not slide off. Why I could not master this is beyond me. The board was flipping out from under me and I'd be on my butt -- in two feet of water, with the safety strap wrapped at least twice around my leg. Not sure what it looked like from shore, but my ineptitude was making me giggle.

I could go for about 20 minutes then needed a timeout to sit on the beach to recharge. There were times I’d go in, hit the surf dead on and totally be bowled over. Water totally flushing through everything.  Just as I’d get myself righted, boom! Another one. They just kept coming …. I had gotten nowhere, but needed another timeout.

I did manage to get out to the curls and ride them in a few times ... albeit on my stomach.  Almost got to one knee one time. A small victory.

Meanwhile, Julie was getting ever so close to a perfect ride. I will just continue to watch and learn.

It's a tough sport. No doubt about it. I'll be better next time.

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