Carnaval Rivers and Caiperinhas
Trip Start Feb 01, 2009
28Trip End Mar 06, 2009
Map your own trip!
Show trip route
We had our first performance with Chameleon on Day one and it was fun, even the part when the heavens opened and suddenly our parade route became a river. Yes we had our skirts up around our waists walking gingerly down the street as cans, urine, vomit, plastic cups, old thongs and streamers streamed downhill. Olinda was cleansing itself, one big purge. We gave up parading for safety´s sake but did end up doing the stage show and it went really well. Tracy did a great job and represented the Australian contingent proudly.
Loi came to visit that afternoon and we had a big chat about what had happened the other day and how we protect our friendship but not aggrivate Andala (that~s her name). Not going to go into it too much but it turns out the whole situation they are in, well before I hit the scene, has turned her a bit strange. She got massive pre and post natal depression (extremely severely) and has never quite recovered.
I´m treating the whole situation lovingly now, knowing I´m not dealing with someone who has it all together, and now understanding Loi´s stress. He´s standing by her and to their original deal (friends who raise a child together) but she keeps bugging him for more, wants more and I guess her self esteem is pretty low right now because she is not getting what she wants - I feel sorry for her.... Anyway it´s a sad situation and Tracy, Loi and I have talked about it at length (basically all together with me translating) and basically as soon as she busts into our scene with Loi we just all separate, it´s easier.
He was really upset that the first night we didn´t stay with him and basically when she turned up with the fury of god we left, but after we talked it all out we realised it was nicer to just let her win, we could see him another time and we are not really into creating a scene plus although he assures us she is fine, we are not exactly sure what she is capable of and prefer not to create safety issues. It seems to be a good decision that has minimised stress for all. With a few anomalies....
Anyways we´ve had some lovely times together with him, and with each other regardless.
After Chameleon we found Loi on the streets parading with an Afoxe group and although he was on the way down to us and we were on the way up to Alanas hopefully to find him, we all three of us followed the group down to their bloco head quarters and watched the ceremony. Afoxe is Candomble (spiritual) ceremony of the streets and it was excellent to watch the drummers and dancers and feel the rhythms through our veins and bones. Tracy´s dog turned up again. Basically everywhere we go we see the same dog, well it looks like the same dog. She keeps saying to me, there he is again! LOL.
During the Afoxe ceremony it bucketed down with rain again and so we waited it out and then made our way to the man of midnight. Yes the giant puppet that parades down the street at midnight, with pages, trumpeters, frevo dancers, full band in tow and about 5000 people as well, if not more. Let me remind you the streets are no wider than a car here, so 5000 people jammed together following the man of midnight down the street is a sight to behold.
Again, we had a blast and again the rain bucketed down. It was fun to see and experience the revellers as the rain came down, dancing under drains etc. ]
Then Loi walked us home.
********* I´ve returned to writing a few days later as the power has been out here*******
Tracy went and napped and Loi and I had a chat about what we were going to do. We basically decided to end the friendship - I am writing this in retrospect as it took a few more days than that, but for simiplicities sake lets call it this way... That night she was calling every five minutes and we couldn~t really get a word in without the phone ringing, but as the rain poured down, we sat on the balcony outside the pousada cuddled, said our goodbyes and I think that is the moment we left it. The next night, after a great day of dancing and revelling with Tracy... Loi and I spoke on the phone and he asked me not to ring again, that he would call me.... Said he still wanted to come to Australia one day but in my heart of hearts I knew it wouldn~t happen.
My realisation is if it looks like a marriage, if everyone thinks its a marriage and if he´s in it raising a child with her, even if he agreed otherwise, its a marriage and he would be a better person for separating with her and not doing everyone´s head in or being in it and going with it... not this half measure.. Anyways I didn~t want to add to the confusion that was already there so it´s easier this way.
The next day Tracy and I sat outside the pousada, got drunk on Caiperinhas and watched the carnaval go by. It was amazing. We had a blast, interacting with the vendors, playing volley ball with baloons. A lot of the vendors gave us stuff for free as they said we were fun to be around and we just accepted gracefully and stuffed our faces with more caiperinhas, fairy floss and bought more cheap trinkets.
Tracy and I have been on a mission to buy one stupid hat a day - yet still we have not acheived our dream of the chicken hat (the chicken of midnight). So drunk as skunks Tracy kept leaping out and accosting people wearing the hats and saying she would buy them. Well basically she mimed to small children - as they had the hats a majority of the time and Tracy cant speak portuguese - and meanwhile worried mothers looked on, until I translated that she really wanted the hat and it was her mission, then they laughed and wished her well but said it was their childs dream too so she couldn~t buy that one.´
Later that night, full to the brim with caiperinhas and frivolity we went upstairs to ´freshen up´only to look outside the window to see the rain bucketing down again... it was yet another flowing river in Olinda. We decided to pack it in... and thankfully woke sans hangovers.