Phew.... now that's windy!
Trip Start
Jan 06, 2006
1
36
37
Trip End
Jan 06, 2009
At sea, S. Georgia and Sandwich Isl.
Thursday, December 27, 2007
After breakfast we had made our way into Fortuna Bay, a relatively sheltered embayment created long ago by glaciation. The winds were steadily blowing rather crystalline snow as we landed on the gravelly strand at Whistle Cove. Fur seal families, lone bulls, and weaned elephant seal pups were scattered across the beach. We walked approximately one kilometer to the king penguin colony. A herd of some 20 plus reindeer came down from a slope above the outwash plain and wandered amongst scattered furseals and penguins. Catabatic winds gusted increasingly throughout the landing, sometimes blowing king penguins over. Snowy sleet swirled and stung our faces and any other part of our bodies that might have been exposed. The winds became so strong that many people were having trouble staying upright or even moving. We managed to get the first group of 100 passengers back to the ship and settled down to wait for the second group.
Incredibly the winds suddenly became even stronger, catabatic winds howling off the glaciers and whipping the bay into a blinding white spray which mixed in with the bitingly cold sleet. The winds were so strong we watched incredulously the ship being driven sideways at up to 3 knots towards the rocks and shore across the bay. The bow thrusters had no chance against that force to turn the ship into the wind and there was not enough room in front of the ship to move forward and turn to escape the bay. We were certain we were witnessing a real disaster while we were helpless to do anything but watch. Fortunately at the last minute the winds dropped enough for the ship to be able to turn and seek the safety of deeper water. Of course we aborted the second landing and concentrated on getting ourselves back to the ship in one piece.
Empty zodiacs could barely contend with the surges of cold air pouring off the glaciers. Rated to operate safely up to 30knots we were trying to get back in winds more than double that, literally hurricane force. Now and then snow swirled so violently through the air that the ship was obscured from view and zodiacs had to heave-to temporarily. Wind speeds were steady at 45 knots and at one point reached 73 knots. I was busy with one of the other guys trying to get the safety zodiac back to the ship but the anchor snagged fast in the kelp and we could only budge it with the help of another zodiac in the middle of sleet showers which were driven horizontally into our eyes. Just a majorly dramatic scene. Finally the shore party was safely delivered back onboard and we waited out the weather for a few hours, eventually deciding that it would be ill-advised to attempt another outing since the winds never did abate much.
Completely knackered after a day battling the elements it was great to have hot showers and a big dinner back in ships restaurant. Many passengers inthe second group complained that they had missed out on going ashore but they had little idea how close to disaster we potentially were. I think sometimes they forget just where in the world we are - along way from help!
Not many photos for today, was a little bit preoccupied!
