Da svi da ni ya, Comrades..!

  Moscow, Russia
Sunday, June 10, 2007

Lake Baikal may not appear that impressive on a world map but up close it is. Containing a fifth of the world's freshwater and about 600 miles long, despite being 50 or so miles across the mountains rising from the opposite shore are clearly visible on a fine day. Its not tidal so mostly its surface is as smooth as glass and reflects almost perfectly the sky above, as you will see from the previous photographs.

It usually freezes over each January, vehicles can drive across it and it stays frozen right up until early May.  At the home where I was staying in Listyanka, which is a small town on the lake's western side, I met two english people who beguiled by its appearance had decided against their better judgement to plumb its depths. Fortunately, for them, they were issued with both a wet and dry suits and dived to just 18 metres. Prompted by this, a third english guy also from the homestay decided to go for a swim without the benefit of any kind of suit and somehow managed to stay in the water for a full 40 seconds, despite the cold. It was good to meet some other english people and also as they were going east whilst I was going west, we all benefitted as I swapped some mongolian money for a moscow guidebook.  
   
Its also home to some interesting and unique animals including a freshwater seal which lives for 50 to 60 years, almost three times longer apparently than its saltwater counterparts.

On the second day there, took the Circumbaikal train round the lake. Built to speed up travel to the far east following defeat in the 1905 war with Japan, the line was once part of the Trans Siberian route, but now serves the few isolated communities which cling to the shore and transports tourists such as myself who wish to take a long, it travels no faster than 12 km per hour most of the time, look. 

The train stopped frequently to allow us to get off & walk around, once for lunch at a  lakeside village where I was invited to and participated in the numerous vodka toasts which were raised. Along with the other foreigners, I was asked to introduce myself to all those on the train and earned a round of applause for something (I forget what exactly) which I said. 

Arriving in Irktusk, I stayed there for a couple of days in what is a pretty unremarkable town. It does however have a bar called Liverpool which along with Beatles memorabila also holds a map on which the town of Aberystwyth is prominently shown. Although I think that I explained in somewhat faltering Russian to my hosts that this was where I was brought up, I was a bit dissapointed that no discount of any kind on my drink was forthcoming. 

From there boarded train # 9, for the 5185 km 77 hour ride to Moscow. After the sociable experiences on the ride up from Beijing, this journey frankly was a dissapointment. The occupants of the other compartments in my carriage choosing to keep their doors closed shut most of the time during the journey. One of the providnista, aka carriage attendant, enlivened the trip a bit as she bore a remarkable resemblance to Myra Hindley; I would have taken a photograph to show this better but decided not to risk her ire by overriding her objections as she had already fined me 80 roubles for taking more bedsheets than I should.

It was good after this to reach Moscow. A city with a distinctly european feel being more settled, less dynamic particularly after the chinese cities recently visited. Its known as an expensive city but despite this I found it an OK kinda place to while away a few days and to visit various of its attractions some of which are shown below:


























The kremlin particularly the armoury where the Tsar's treasures are held, was absorbing. As Lenin's mausoleum, St Basils Cathedral and the State History Musuem  lay just outside the kremlin's walls, one could see most of the city's premier sights in just one day if one so chose.

















The metro is fabulous. Dubbed "Palaces for the People" these are more opulent and spacious than their equivalent in London or indeed any other city I have visited. 















Having been largely deprived for the last few weeks, I took the opportunity to catch up on recent political happenings before flying back to London. The Moscow Times gave the front page to Putin's proposal that Azerbajan rather than the the americans choice of the Czech republic be the home for the missile shield. A much better location given the americans stated aim of detroying missiles coming from rogue states, Bush appears to have been surprised and had to agree to relay Putin's proposal to his experts for further consideration. Further demonstrating his chutzpah, Putin also used a junior, the deputy defence minister to demean Blair by calling him an almost ex prime minister during the verbal sparring which lead up to the G8 summit in Germany. Whilst this may be midly amusing, I couldn't help observing that Russia is distinct from the other principals at the summit by not being a full working democracy. 

That is my last political or indeed any other thought for this travelog. Particular thanks to those who have enlivened it by commenting and finally I hope that you have enjoyed reading it almost as much as I enjoyed the journey..!