My continuation in Brazil
Trip Start
Jan 03, 2010
1
78
85
Trip End
Ongoing
Salvador, State of Bahia, Brazil
Thursday, November 17, 2011
I managed my way through the cobble-stoned streets in Salvador with my luggage slowly weighing me down. Itīs always a challenge to keep my head up and enjoy the scenery when walking...trying not to fall, roll an ankle or land myself in a gaping hole in the sidewalk. Up and down the streets, to the right, back to the other street, around the corner and down a steep hill (escorted by a mighty handsome officer who was willing to help I might add) and I found my hostel. A narrow entrance with trees and plants covering the walkway lead me to the two very large dogs sprawled on the cement floor in the reception area. They definitely took precedence over guests. You either like the dogs or shut your mouth. That was the impression I got. Good thing I love animals.
And there it was. My room. My cramped dorm room once again. This time a 10-bed dorm. The one open bed in the room was mine, right next to the door and the bathroom. This would be a long two nights...
My stomach was communicating with me the urgency to eat. I admired the beautiful colors of the restaurants and store-fronts as I searched for a place to seat myself. There wasnīt time to "dilly dally" as mom would say; I needed to eat meat. Thatīs what my body was craving. I found a small restaurant down a quiet street with tables and chairs outside. I was challenged with reading the Portugese menu and inability to communicate with the waitress. I took my finger and pointed to something on the menu to end the conversation getting me no-where, hoping it would satisfy.
It did. Rice, beans and chicken. As I was eating I could see two young men occasionally glancing at my table... smiling, gesturing, enjoying this little "game" which now involved me. I felt like I was in the scene of a foreighn film. Latin men...
I typically welcome new conversation when "in the mood," and at the time I was. A nice young man he was, his name Javier. He joined me as I finished my dinner having a mixed conversation of English, Spanish and Portugese. We took a walk around the city center, wandering in and out of art studios, making inquires about prices and options to post home. Beautiful artwork I wanted badly to have my home someday. I didnīt leave with anything in my hands, but the images of these paintings I will not forget.
A few hours later, an ice-cream cone and a beautiful view of the sun setting, I was off to bed. Surprisingly, the evening allowed me a good nights sleep, waking just in time for the complimentary breakfast downstairs. I had to nudge the four-legged, hairy animals out of my path to make it to the coffee pot but I managed. A wonderful breakfast at a hostel is such a treat. Such a treat. I was happy to join four young American women outside for breakfast. It was nice to have conversation with them...they had moved to Rio to teach English for one year and were loving it...something I had always thought about doing.
I joined Javier that day in taking the ferry across the way to an island which I can not remember the name of. A small fare for a very large ferry packed with people taking about 45 minutes and we arrived the island. Ilha de Thapera...something like this. It felt a bit like Mexico as we crossed over the bridge onto land with markets and small shops, men approaching to offer rides to who knows where. It was nice to be with a local. No need to worry about figuring things out; I was along for the journey. We hopped in one of the many vans parked in the lot and smushed ourselves in the already over-crowded van. Hot, sweaty and minimal ventialation. It was the way the locals did it. And for as much as I can typically handle, I prefer doing it the local way.
The beach was full of women wearing Brazilian bikinis. Never in my life have I seen so many wearing these skimpy little things...but I guess I was in Brazil. Big women, small, short, tall...all types. I observed one too many that should not have been wearing one; but they didnīt seem to care. Confidence. The Brazilian women have a confidence that I must admit is quite admirable, especially in a situation where 6% of your body is covered by nylon.
The following few days were spent in Morro de Sao Paulo. A ferry ride, taxi, bus and boat to arrive but eventually was in the place I had wanted to pay a visit to. The pictures looked beautiful and I loved the thought of being on a small island. It is one of five villages on the island Tinhare. Javier joined me as the company and assistance with a foreign language was welcomed. I quickly realized after leaving Rio that Brazil was a challenging place to travel if unable to speak the language. It was rare finding people outside the big city who I could communicate with in English making everything a bit stressful.
The beaches were beautiful. The water blue, the waves mesmerizing and the jungle behind the coastline amazing. The only downfall was the tourists which plagued the area. I didnīt realize the amount of "other foreignersĻ I would be with. I prefer to be removed from ĻthemĻ these days along with the touristy shops and over-priced fancy restaurants lining the beach.
We found our way through the jungle which lead us to one of the many more secluded beaches. Random scatters of people laying in the sun, testing out the water and enjoying cold drinks. The weather was hot...anything cold was nice.
Chapada Diamantina was the next destination in line; a national park with much recognition was where I wanted to spend some time exploring the endless nature of Brazilīs "Lost World." The first town was Lencois. A small colonial city with extremely difficult-to-walk cobble-stone roads constructed many years ago by slaves...I managed however. I was able to experience the Marimbus. What a picturesque place...it was as if I was in the Notebook; minus the swans and ending to the scene of course (although it did end up raining). The Marimbus is a wetland surrounded by mountains and rivers; they call it the Pantanal of the Chapada. It was beautiful. There were five of us in the long wooden canoe. One very strong, young man at the back paddling us though the lily pads and other no-named plants (because I donīt know what their called). We landed at a place which lead us to a hike in the jungle...arriving at the waterfalls. Brazil is full of waterfalls, stunning waterfalls. The water cold but I couldnīt complain. Okay I did for the first fifteen minutes...
Mangoes galore. We picked them up from the ground as they had falled from a very large tree near a restaurant...some of the best mangoes Iīve ever eaten...and they were free. It was a wonderful afternoon, despite the fact my camera became water and sand damaged. Lens error continued to pop up on my camera screen. It lasted 11 months...I canīt complain.
I had the chance to eat some of the best food with Javier. He introduced me to some new things I absolutely loved. Many of the restaurants offer a buffet-style meal where you make a plate with as much or little as youīd like, weigh it and pay for it. The meat in Brazil is absolutely delicious. The tenderness, flavor, juicieness...just mouth-watering. The vegetables incredibly prepared...the beans...wow. Some of the best food if not the best since Iīve left home.
With a few other hikes to absolutely magnificent rock formations surrounded by pools of water and waterfalls, caves and jungle...I was pleasantly satified. No camera to witness however...boo I know. The morning came early to pack up and head to Capao, another town an hour away in Chapada. I would be on my own once again. Javier and his friends dropped me off. I was in the perfect place at the perfect time to meet one of the very few people in town who spoke english. Daniella was her name...she would be my friend for the days to come...
Quote: A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions
-Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr.
Comments
love that you mentioned how the beans taste :)