Split

Trip Start Jul 23, 2007
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18
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Trip End Aug 23, 2007


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Flag of Croatia  ,
Monday, August 13, 2007

Leaving my luggage at the bus station, and leaving Star to sort out her bus to the airport for Wednesday, I set off to explore Split, starting in the market. We arrived at 9:30am, so it was still in full swing. There was a huge area devoted to fruit, veg, cheese, honey, souveniers and clothes, so I bought some grapes to snack on, which are grown in abundance here. They're so juicy, you have to get some if you ever come to Croatia! I also went into a bakery to get breakfast. I spied what looked like a lamington- the square, coconut covered sponge cake you get in Australia and New Zealand. I was quite exited as I hadn't seen one since I'd been out there and they're yummy but couldn't manage a whole one, so took what looked like a smaller, ball shaped version. As I bit into it though, I discovered it was a giant chocolate rum ball. Very, very good, but probably not what you should be eating at 9:30 in the morning. Well I couldn't let it go to waste, so I polished it off, before buying an icecream for good measure :D I walked through the fish market next, and wished I had some access to cooking facilties. In the restaurants here, they sell fish by the kilo, and it's very expensive, about 320KN typically (32 pounds). Fine if there are 4 of you, not so good if it's only one. But this fish in the market was so cheap- what you'd expect from a coastal town- I just had no way of cooking it!

So I walked on by, and, fully unashamed of my tourist status by now, got out my LP and followed their walking guide to the city. The main bit is all housed inside Dicoletean's Palace, the piece de resistance being the cathedral in the centre that was built to be his mausoleum and later converted. He built the entire palace just to retire in 300AD. It was a pretty big place, now packed with residential houses, cafes and shops. I had no idea Croatia had such a history of being occupied with the Italians, Austrians, Ottomans etc etc. As it happens though, once you've seen the cathedral and walked through the palace part of the city, there's not really much else to do, so I was done in 90 minutes.

I decided to walk along the coast to try and find some recommended museums about Ivan Mestrovic, a famous Croatian sculptor. I didn't really have much sense of distance, though, and it ended up taking half an hour. When I got there, I realised it was a Monday, and so they were closed. It seems like most churches and museums are closed on Mondays, as I remember I had the same problem in Genoa. Anyway, it didn't matter, as I found a pathway down to a nearby beach. It was fairly busy, but I didn't have my swimming stuff with me, and it was too hot to sit in the sun anyway, so I found a shady bench and sat, reading my book (of course) looking over the bay and the now expected, bright blue sea. I'd managed to work out the bus timetable, but was leaving it quite late to get the ferry back if there were any problems- I knew Star would already be on it, finding the best seat! It didn't matter though, the bus (number 12 or 12a) came on time, and after a bit of a struggle getting my luggage back (they really need to employ more than one person there) I was on the boat in plenty of time. The ferry was going to another island, Vis, a 2 hour car ferry away (slower than catamaran). I felt a bit drowsy again, so napped on one of the benches under the clear blue sky with the wind whipping through my hair.
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