The Last Leg
Trip Start
Sep 25, 2010
1
9
10
Trip End
Oct 29, 2010
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Saturday, October 23, 2010
We arrived in Halifax late evening, and strolled towards our B&B. We hadn't really appreciated how hilly Halifax would be, but we soon began to wish we had hailed a cab from the station as we huffed and puffed our way up the main road with two hefty backpacks in tow and Sam’s bloody paddle…
On reaching our B&B, we dumped our bags and then decided what we were going to do for our last couple of days. Both Sam and I were keen to return to 'wilderness’ once more, so we pulled our Lonely Planet Guide Book and began reading. We had been advised that a visit to Cape Breton – the coastal region situated at the very tip of Nova Scotia and some 400kms away – was worth the trip, however, after studying the transport options and noting what little time we really had left, we both felt that this wasn’t a viable trip on this occasion. We settled instead on heading towards a place called ‘Lunenburg’ – which was a little further along the coast from Halifax, but still only a couple of hours drive. We were drawn to this place because we noticed that it was a UNESCO Heritage Site – plenty of ‘New England’ style houses surrounded by open ocean, lakes and trees – it sounded like the perfect place to finish. We also noted that there were a number of whale watching companies offering boat trips. I dutifully ‘Googled’ but unfortunately we discovered that the season had drawn to a close and all of the companies had packed up for the winter.
Despite this, we were still determined to make our way down the coast and found a chap who offered shuttle services and who also ran a small hostel. It turned out that he was a New Zealander and as barmy as could be! Our barmy host turned out to be a fabulous find because not only did he pick us up from the door of our B&B the following morning, he also took us on a coastal tour of all the towns between Halifax and Mahone Bay (where the hostel was situated and very close to Lunenburg). On this trip, we visited Peggy’s Cove – including the most famous (and most photographed) lighthouse in Canada (allegedly!). It reminded us of a really quaint Cornish costal town – and it even had the Cornish Pasties to match.
When we arrived at the hostel, we found that we were the only people staying bar a Canadian family from Alberta. We all got on so well and we chatted until the wee small hours. We were somewhat flattered by their love for the British people – their daughter even wanted to record our voices!! Unfortunately, this was their last night at the hostel, and we both agreed that we would miss them.
During the evening, Greg (our crazy New Zealand host) took us for a drive to Lunenburg to enable us to get some food. He showed us the sights at night and advised us on the scenic route to take – he really was incredibly helpful.
Tuesday 26th October
Trying to make the most of the time we had left, we were up early taking a trip to Lunenburg. Greg kindly offered to drive us there, and he dropped us at the far edge of town so that we could take in the magnificent scenery. The town kept us busy for a good couple of hours, and after sampling the best smoked salmon sandwich I had ever tasted, we ventured off down the trail back towards Mahone Bay. Greg had advised us to carry a stick whilst on the trails – just in case – so we made this our first task. Sam had to get the biggest stick he could find (of course), but after the paddle fiasco, I told him under no circumstances was that coming home with us too!!
The walk was beautiful – we spotted deer and frogs (of all things!) – and we had it all to ourselves as we didn’t pass a soul.
Wednesday 27th October
Today we took a stroll in the opposite direction – towards Mahone Bay. The weather looked overcast, but we decided to walk anyway – come on, we are English after all – we laugh at the threat of rain!! However, as soon as we started walking the heavens opened! We found ourselves wishing, yet again, that we’d invested in a pair of waterproof trousers (I would have happily given up my thermals for a pair of these!!!) Luckily for us, Greg passed us in his car and took pity. He drove us along the coast and dropped us off at the start of the Dynamite Trail which led around Mahone Bay. It was another beautiful trail – and although we were extremely wet – we both enjoyed ourselves immensely.
We finished off the day with our last sample of Canadian beer – and I even managed to get a missing beer mat for my collection (I’m sad, I know – but I couldn’t possibly leave here without a ‘Moosehead’ memento!). Whilst we were in the pub I also had an opportunity to sample the local mussels – yum, yum – and Sam tried the Salmon (he wasn’t brave enough to try the bacon wrapped scallops, no matter how hard I tried). We both agreed that you can’t really beat the taste of the freshly caught, local fish in Nova Scotia.
Thursday 28th October
No matter which way we look at it, or how much we try to deny it, today is our very last day here in Canada. I know we shouldn’t moan – I mean, how many other people get the chance to holiday for 5 weeks on the trot?? – but, we really do not want to come home yet. The time has flown by so quickly.
With our flight not until 7:30pm, Greg offered to take us to a small fishing village along the coast. Canada really wanted to give us a good farewell, and the sun shone brightly all day. In fact, people of Mahone Bay commented on how gloriously warm the day was – unusual for that time of year (the car thermometer read 21 degrees!). On our final ride around the coast we got some great pictures of the waves crashing the coast, and the sea mists flowing in over the tree tops.
After our day out, we returned to the hostel to collect our bags for the very last time. Greg drove us to the airport – on the way I tried to capture as much of the scenery I could.
We’re both sitting here now, at the airport, in the Maritime Ale House – savouring the last of the Canadian beer…well, some things you just have to do, don’t you!
See you on the other side guys xxx
