Closing the (Arctic) Circle

• Ruthcape's Profile
• About this blog
• Entry from Stirling

Trip Start Jul 30, 2010 Previous
Entry Trip End Aug 06, 2011

  Stirling, Scotland, United Kingdom
Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Here I find myself - sitting in the homely comfort of my Bridge of Allan garden enjoying the strange sensation of dusk and, when a black night sky eventually draws in, restraining my eyes from flicking up to check for hints of shimmering green.

My final month or so in Tromsø passed by in a whirl of sun, cycling and Sivertsens. The more time I spent in this unique wee cafe, the more deeply fond of the place I felt. To have been part of something less transient than the student life certainly adds another thread to the rope-of-return which I'm sure someday will pull me northwards again...

The precious weeks were shared with friends old and new and were passed continuing to revel in the novelty of my snowless surroundings. Having said that, the end of June was still able to offer a pure-white ascent up one of the local mountains (to the disappointment of Radek, a friend leaving that week and hoping for a last gulp of the Troms vista) and even a spot of sledging (to the delight of Ric and Alys, friends visiting from home).

I didn't fully manage to make it to the many fantastic looking music and culture festivals which scatter the north in the summer months (another thread on that rope...). Note "fully" however, as one memorable night a friend and I paddled out in kayaks to a enjoy a free and particularly special "Dandy Warhols" gig : Tromsø's annual 'Bukta' festival in the southernmost bay of the island. "Bohemian like you" will forever have a touch of cutting through a still sea sparkeling with nighttime sun...!

                                                                    - - -

My last days drew closer and just as I was about to bid my farewells, the country which had hosted me so beautifully was rocked with horror.

I was working at the time. The initial news was brought to me by a puzzled customer and in the hours which followed, a laptop perched on the cafe counter and gradually divulged the macabre events of that day.
A day which will tragically be engrained in the minds and hearts of the Norwegian people.
A day which reminds us simultaneoulsy of the unfathomably cruel and (as stories came in from the island) unfathomably brave capacities of the human spirit.
A day which hopefully left the country only more resolved to be open and welcoming.

I was fortunate, at least, to be able to pay my respects, shed a tear and lay a flower alongside the millions shocked and grieving around the country. Follow the link at the end of this post for my reflections after attending Tromsø's memorial procession and service.

That was my last day in Tromsø, so the air was thick with emotion as I, alongwith the wonderful help of my visiting Edinburgh friend, Fiona, stripped my room to a sad white state, loaded my bags and took in a long last look at my ørndalen view.

1.30AM the next morning and Fiona and I were drifting southwards. Waving to the little figures on the pier as a great grey cloud blanketed the island as if setting it to sleep after a heavy few days. Heads resting on the railings, we watched until the little figures turned to pinpricks and the mainland bridge faded into the enveloping white sky.

Tucked up in my sleeping bag on the floor of the Hurtigruten lounge, I could think of no better way to break myself from a place which held so much of me there than letting the waters carry me away... After a stunning following day of fjords, porpoises and dodgy cruiseship entertainment, we met my erasmus friend, Claudia, in Bodø and continued the journey to the tropical south together by train. 'Tropical', by the way, is no exageration to decribe the heat which hit us on arrival in Oslo. At least as we experienced it - seasoned northerners donned with woolen socks and bags bigger than ourselves. Free of the monsters on our backs, however, and having the good fortune to be hosted by two fantastically hospitible families of friends, we could relish the heat with four days of lake swimming, raspberry picking, cliff jumping, sailing, barbequeing and frisbee-ing. Before I new it, the time was upon me to do the final lingering goodbyes - to Claudia as she set of for Kiel and to Norway as Fi and I boarded the coach destined for London.

5 countries, 32 hours and a good deal of 'Great Expectations' audiobook later we tumbled into Victoria Station. After 3 more days to catch up with my brother and old friends (happily oblivious at the time of what was just about to follow in the streets of the capital...) I boarded the final leg of my journey. Northwards again. And home.

Until I'm tugged in whatever direction once again - Thanks for reading.

Takk for meg.

                                                                    - - -

Love in a time of Anguish:
http://brightgreenscotland.org/index.php/2011/07/love-in-a-time-of-anguish/

Stirling hotels Slideshow Share

Post your own travel photos for friends and family More Pictures

Sivertsens	view from the top of Nonstinden...	Dandy Warhols at Bukta	me and Fi - the Brensholmen walk
from my busstop - a last look...	quite a scene to wake up to! from the ship..	Trollfjord	catching the midnight sun
final visit to my favourite church	Best way to enter Oslo bay	ay ay captain	sea of flowers - Oslo Domkirke

Previous Entry