Horses and Friends / Hope Town
Trip Start
Jul 21, 2001
1
45
Trip End
Apr 22, 2002
Hope Town, Bahamas
Friday, March 15, 2002
ACCLAIM, FOREVER YOUNG, and RIVERDANCE were anxious to be on their way as they were headed to Eleuthera and then to Nassau. We decided to go part of the way with them so, early Saturday, our four boats headed out to Hope Town. We decided to stop behind Johnnys Cay and take the dinghies out to do some snorkeling on the ocean side reef. It was advertised in the cruising guide as one of the three top sites in this area. John from RIVERDANCE, picked me up in his dinghy and it was a good thing as, despite the fact that he had a 15 hp engine, it still took us some time to get out to the reef.
It was exciting to dive on the ocean side once more, with the breakers throwing huge sprays into the air as we safely snorkeled on the relatively quiet backside of the reef. Lots of fish and quite a number of good sized fish. We snorkeled as close as we could to the breakers until we had to turn back due to the fact that we could no longer see due to the air bubbles in the waters caused by the crashing waves. Martin and Pauline soon arrived and then John and Alida who didn't dive but tried their hand at fishing with no more luck than we had with our spears. Martin had the best chance of the day with a large grouper but, as they say, close only counts in horseshoes.
The harbour of Hope Town is quite small and there is no room to anchor due to the moorings which have been set by the marinas. We were unable to obtain any moorings so our four boats anchored off the entrance out of the way of the ferry traffic but still affected by the large waves their wake caused.
February 16
RAIN!!! It was a miserable day and, since we knew we'd have other chances to tour Hope Town, we stayed aboard while the others went ashore in the rain. The weather forecast that morning indicated that we could expect similar weather for the next several days so we decided to abort our plan to sail further south with the group and return to Marsh Harbour the following day.
That evening we invited everyone over to MYSTIC LOON for a farewell evening. Even though it was still raining and even though our boat is quite small to host eight people, we had a wonderful final evening together. The evening was tinged with sadness but happy with the recollections of so many shared moments during the past four months.
Martin and Pauline plan to marry in Nassau when Pauline's son arrives for a visit on his March Break from school in Toronto. We desperately wanted to go with them to attend the event but then we would be faced with very long ocean passages by ourselves to find our way back to the States. This was not a project we wanted to undertake in our boat with no radar, life raft or EPIRB. We gave them our wedding gift and with tears that night and the next morning we said goodbye to wonderful friends.
February 17
It was a sad moment when we waved goodbye to everyone that morning and the dreary weather did not help. When we returned to Marsh Harbour the crowded anchorage seemed very lonely. Going ashore on a Sunday did not help as everything was closed except a few grocery stores. It was very depressing.
Normally when you say goodbye to friends, there is a good chance you can see each other again. Even if they are visiting from far away, both of you have homes and, if the will is there, you can travel to see each other. In this case, all three boats are their homes and they can travel any where in the world so the chance of our paths crossing again is almost nonexistent. But one never knows as we were soon to find out.
February 18 - 21
I spoke with FOREVER YOUNG via our Ham radio. They and ACCLAIM left on their way to Eleuthera. The seas were 8 feet and so rose to 12 feet. Rough ride for all but they made it safely. John and Connie on RIVERDANCE decided to wait till the next day in hopes that the seas would moderate. When they did leave they got out of the ocean cut at Little Harbour without too much difficulty but quickly found themselves in big seas which buried the bow of their boat and threw spray back out the entire length of their 38 foot boat. Their boat is a heavy, ocean going Island Packet but they were just tossed by the seas. Everything was secured below but it still went flying with the pounding they took trying to reverse course and return to the safety of Little Harbour. Margaret and I were certainly glad we were securely anchored here in Marsh Harbour.
Dave and Judy from NICOU returned from their trip back to Maine and, on Feb. 21, RIVERDANCE returned. They have given up on the idea of going to Eleuthra and Nassau. They phoned their friends and told them to meet them instead here in Marsh, when they arrive in March. We are also eagerly awaiting friends as Valerie and Grant Boland (who looks after this web site for us) are arriving on March 1.
One decision our three boats have made is that we will sail together on the trip back to the U.S. and we will return via approximately the same path we followed getting here. We had thought of going around the south end of the Abacos but, after RIVERDANCE'S experience, we decided the more protected northern waters would be just excellent.
Here in the Abacos, there is a Cruisers Net operated on VHF channel 68 at 8:15 a.m. local time. Patty and Bob Toler have managed the net from Marsh Harbour for the past ten years and various people help out with different parts of the net. The net schedule starts with a comprehensive weather report based on NOAA forecasts with local interpretations. This is followed by observations from boats in the various areas on conditions at several Atlantic passes where rage sea conditions sometimes exist. After the weather, community, news, and commercial announcements are made. Then cruisers are welcomed to the area, departing cruisers offer to take mail back to USA or other countries, and cruisers leave messages with each other for chats on other channels. It lasts for about 45 minutes to an hour and hundreds of boats listen to it religiously each morning.
The news, these past few weeks, has concentrated on the Olympics. Unfortunately there is never any news on how well Canada is doing as the people who do the news are all Americans who download off the Internet or watch CNN at the marinas. We had to get our news via our HAM radio from Radio Canada International which broadcasts "The World at Six" each evening on several frequencies. After listening to some great stories of our athletes, I decided to use the Open Mike portion to broadcast Canada's medal count and some details of our wins.
After doing this for two mornings and receiving a number of calls from Canadian boats thanking me, Patty, the net controller contacted me and asked if I'd be willing to do a regular report each morning after the world news segment just on Canadian news. In reality, there are more Canadian boats in the Abacos than American boats so there was a real listening audience out there.
It has been a wonderful experience leading to meeting many new people. It was especially great to announce the gold medals in men and women's hockey. The chap who does the news and I had a deal that which ever country won the gold, that person would get to announce the final scores so both days I had the honour.
February 24
Canada vs the United States in men's hockey. NICOU was tied up at the Conch Inn Marina as Dave and Judy's daughter and family were visiting for a week. Since Dave had power, we took over a television from RIVERDANCE to watch the game live. As the only Canadian aboard a boatload of Americans we had lots of laughs and with a perfect ending (as far as I was concerned). When the game ended, all around the harbour horns blew and Canadian flags were high aboard the ships.
February 28
We checked into the Port of Call Marina to prepare the boat for Grant and Val's visit. As we moved and repacked supplies we couldn't believe how much new space we were able to create. It certainly was a good thing they didn't come early in the trip when we were still loaded down from our shopping and provisioning for three months.
March 1
What a delight to meet friends from home. We have met wonderful people on this cruise but there is something very special about people you have known for so long. Grant and I have been friends since high school and we have been friends with his wife, Valerie, for over 30 years. They have sailed with us for a number of years in the North Channel so had a good idea of what to expect but still were surprised with how we had packed so much on this little boat and all the modifications we had made for this trip.
Unfortunately we are in for a week of unsettled weather so we spent the day showing them the sights of Marsh Harbour. This picture was taken near the marina. Note the lack of earth and grass which was common throughout Marsh Harbour.
One of the more interesting volunteer efforts is that of trying to save the wild horses of Abaco. "These are horses which may be descendants from the time of Columbus. In the early 60's there were nearly two hundred, but the herd fell victim to sports hunters and only three were rescued. Today's herd, once up to 35, now numbers only 17. Uncontrolled feral and domestic dogs and limited medical care threaten their future." If anyone is interested in more information on the horses they have a web site at http://www.arkwild.org
One woman in particular who has devoted so much time to the project is Mimi, a singlehander aboard "Aldelon". To raise funds she got an old ship's container, permission to set it up at the end of the local mall and hosts "Buck a Book". Cruisers are asked to donate any books they've read and then she sells them for a buck. Any money raised goes to support the wild horses.
Wild dogs threaten the horses so she has put together a band of volunteers - veterinarians, etc. who donate their time to neuter any dogs she retrieves. Abaco dogs have the name "Potcakes" and when she retrieves pups, they are advertised on the cruisers net for adoption. During the past week she was able to have 7 adopted by cruisers, all with their shots provided free of charge.
March 3
We invited John from RIVERDANCE to join us as we sailed to Mermaid Reef and snorkeled the reef. Grant and Val couldn't get over the beautiful colours of the sea which we sailed over. Going back to the marina we made sure we rinsed off our dive suits with lots of fresh water. If you don't do this, they quickly develop a smell from the salt water.
March 4 and 5
Sailed to Treasure Cay to enjoy their world famous beach. Unfortunately we just beat a storm into the harbour and no sooner had we anchored than the skies opened with a 180 degree wind shift and a deluge of rain. Great evening to stay aboard and play bridge. The next day although it was too chilly for sunbathing, we were able to enjoy the pleasures of the area.
March 6
We motored into large head seas on the way to Baker's Bay. At one point we were going into six foot seas which would normally not be a problem but gets scary in shallow water. For about 1/2 a mile we watched the depth sounder go from 12 feet at the crest of the wave to 6 feet at the bottom. It was a relief when we got into a more sheltered area.
With the strong winds there were only three other boats anchored off the beach what a difference from the 40 plus boats we found the last time we were there.
Before supper, we went ashore to explore the ruins left by the failed charter company which I've described previously.
March 7
We returned to Marsh Harbour with an invigorating beam reach sail. That evening Grant and Val treated us to a wonderful meal on the eastern side of the island at the Lazy Parrot. We were picked up at the marina for the four mile trip and returned after dinner. It was nice seeing the interior of the island as the driver took us on a bit of a sightseeing tour on the way to the restaurant. This restaurant doesn't advertise on the cruisers net but for anyone staying in Marsh Harbour, I'd recommend it highly.
March 8
Breakfast at beautiful Mango's and then all too soon we had to say goodbye to our great friends.
About two hours after they left, the strong winds which we had endured all week died and for the next ten days we enjoyed some of the finest weather of the winter. Why couldn't we have had this when Grant and Val were with us?
March 9 to 12
Before leaving the marina, we took advantage of being closer to the laundromat (only ½ mile away). We found the best way to haul everything is inside the BAJA bags we purchased at Outdoor Experience in Toronto. Thanks Bruce Cunningham for the great tip!!! They come in especially handy when we are returning from shopping and have to store everything in the dinghy for a wet trip across the harbour if there is a choppy sea.
With town chores done we returned to life at anchor. We enjoyed going to Mermaid Beach each day together with John and Connie and Dave and Judy. We never tired of snorkeling the small reef there which is so filled with marine life and then returning to the fresh water pool at the Marsh Harbour Marina at which Dave and Judy dock NICOU.
During these days we went to an arts and craft show hosted at the Jib Room and on another day attended the "Great Blindfold Dinghy Race". We went with Dave and Judy aboard their dinghy and watched the antics of the members of the Marsh Harbour Yacht Club. The driver of the dinghy has to be blindfolded and the navigator yells instructions as they wind their way along the course.
March 13 and 14
Along with RIVERDANCE and NICOU, we reserved two nights on moorings in Hope Town. Because it is such a small congested harbour there is really no room for anchoring and you must book ahead for a mooring or stay at one of the marinas.
Hope Town on Elbow Cay is a beautiful community. The cruiser's guide book states: "In 1900 Hope Town was the largest and most prosperous settlement in the Abacos. It was the seat of the commissioner and its population of 1200 lived by fishing, sponging, shipping and boat building". It now has a population of about 350 and most of the homes are second homes for people from around the world who spend a limited time here and rent out their homes for the rest of the year.
Hope Town is described as "a time warp hamlet". It has clapboard, saltpox cottages weathered to a silver grey or painted in pastel colours, with white-picket fences setting them off. No vehicles or golf carts are allowed in the town itself except for a specially designed fire truck which can navigate the narrow streets and a similarly designed garbage truck.
We rented two golf carts and set out to explore the island. Throughout our trip we constantly were stopping either to see gorgeous views of the seaside or one of the many beautiful, very expensive homes belonging mainly to people who use them as a second home for the winter.
About one and a half miles south of Hope Town, the Abaco Inn sits on a ridge of sandy soil overlooking both the Atlantic Ocean with its crashing waves and quiet protected waters of White Sound and the Sea of Abaco. There was a good wind that day so no sunbathers in their beautiful ocean side pool.
We finally made our way down to Tahiti Beach at the south end of Elbow Cay, about 5 miles from Hope Town. There is no access other than by boat or the way we came by golf cart. We found this beautiful beach almost deserted and we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring, shell collecting, swimming and just relaxing sunbathing.
That evening, we enjoyed happy hour aboard NICOU and made plans to attend the once a year "house tour" the next day. The local school was sponsoring this tour to raise money for new computers.
In 1900, Hope Town was the largest and most prosperous settlement in the Abacos. It was the seat of the commissioner and its population of 1200 lived by fishing, sponging, shipping and boat building. It now has a population of about 350 and most of the homes are second homes for people from around the world who spend a limited time here and rent out their homes for the rest of the year.
March 14
I went exploring as the others went on a house tour arranged as a fund raiser for the local school. Margaret had a wonderful morning and now has tons of ideas of what she'd like back in Little Current. Our first task will be to win the Lottery and after that I have assured her that the rest will be easy. :-)
The homes were a mix of private residences and homes now available for rent. The homes ranged from the one of the oldest homes on the island to the newest. To give you an idea of the variety of homes on the tour, I'll quote descriptions of three from the guide.
One of the 15 homes Margaret toured was "Southern Fancy" which once belonged to the editors of Ladies Home Journal and was built in 1898. It had a chandelier "which once graced a Bawdy House in India". The fixture was transported to the Bahamas from the Goulds house in Martha's Vineyard.
"Dream On" is the newest home in Hope Town done in Southern Caribbean style. The colourful guestroom reminds one of a manor house in Barbados. At the top is a study with its own balcony overlooking the Sea of Abaco and the ocean beaches of Elbow Cay. The "Flamingo Villas" are two pink rental villas with six individual balconies and every bedroom overlooking the harbour.
The Hope Town School is an historic site built in 1893. The original red and white one room building has "stood firm on its foundation despite major hurricanes in 1927, 1935, 1965 and 1999. The rooms are now air conditioned, however the carved wooden corners built by loyalist shipbuilders are still very much in view". There is now a second building built in the same style. They have an enrolment of 38 students as many of the more prosperous parents send their children to the new private schools in Marsh Harbour. Each day these students take the small ferry across the 6 mile stretch of water between the two islands.
While in the States, we had been able to purchase very cheaply: calculators, boxes of crayons and pencils, magic markers and high-lighters, folders and binders. We had been carrying these aboard to donate to an island school. In Hope Town, we found the students we wanted to assist.
In talking with Candace Key, the Head Mistress, her students come from a wide variety of backgrounds including a number of Haitian students who could certainly use assistance with school supplies.
March 15- the most photographed lighthouse in the Caribbean.
We had been saving our visit to the Hope Town lighthouse for a perfect sunny day and today couldn't have been better. We even had special visitors, as Koos and Kelly joined us for the morning. We had met these two delightful young women when Grant and Val took us to the Lazy Parroy in Marsh Harbour. We had looked forward to meeting up with them again as they were on a charter aboard a beautiful 46 foot Hunter. Rescuing them from the opulence of BANANA WIND, we dinghied over to view this famous lighthouse..
The candy cane striped lighthouse is one of the few remaining manned lighthouses in the Caribbean and is supported by the Bahamas Lighthouse Preservation Society which is headquartered in Hope Town. Volunteers make some of the out-of-production parts such as "the delicate, antiquated mantles needed for the kerosene powered lights". In the Fall 1998 edition of Abaco Life, the Keepers of the Lighthouse were featured. The article describes how two men who have worked for the past twenty five years, have six-hour shifts looking after the light. "The rotating Fresnel lenses are kept in motion by the descending pull of seven hundred pounds of weights. The keeper must hand wind these weights every two hours to regenerate the lights rotating power. The cut glass lenses, which concentrate and amplify the mantles light rest in a tub of mercury so they turn with little friction. So ingenious is this design that a person can put the four-ton apparatus in motion with one finger!" The original logbook for the lighthouse which is kept in Nassau dates completion of the lighthouse in 1863.
The article continued with a small story recording that: "Both men had to crank the gears all night recently when the weight mechanism broke down. And it can be dangerous. Forbes shows scars on his chest from burning alcohol that accidentally spilled on him during the mantle pre-heating process".
The climb of the 101 steps to the top of the lighthouse is well worth the effort to obtain unforgettable views of Hope Town Harbour, the Sea of Abaco to the north and west and the Atlantic Ocean to the south and east.
There is an new IMAX movie out on Dolphins. We found out that the film crew spent several weeks in Hope Town while they were filming the area. Bruce Cunningham and his family saw it recently in Sudbury and said it has some great shots of the harbour and the sailboats so if you really want to view where we sailed you will enjoy this movie.
RIVERDANCE left to return to Marsh Harbour to await guests while NICOU and MYSTIC LOON proceeded southward. We had wanted to stop and snorkel at Sandy Cay but the east wind had raised large swells at the reef so we continued on and anchored for the night at Lynyard Cay. Quite a number of other boats were here also as this is one of the main inlets to the ocean to proceed or enter from a voyage to the Eleuthras or Nassau.
Dave and I took advantage of the clear water to scrub our hulls. Even with the best bottom paint we could buy, there still was quite a build up of vegetation on our hulls. It would take a number of attempts to do the entire hull as one soon tires from the exertion of snorkeling down, scrubbing a small area, back up for air, down again, etc. I didn't have bottom paint on the shaft or the propeller and there were quite a number of barnacles growing on the metal. Thankfully the zincs which I had installed four months earlier at St. Augustine were still in good shape and only needed the barnacles scrapped off. Dave later hired a diver back in Marsh Harbour to complete the job on their 38 foot boat but I kept doing a little each time we anchored in clear water.
We enjoyed walking the beautiful beach and Margaret and Judy continued to add to their shell collections. The next day we would head a short distance away to the delights of isolated Little Harbour and see for ourselves where a famous artist escaped from the world to raise a family in a cave.
Someday, I'll complete this web site journey and describe our trip back to Grand Bahama Island and across the Gulf Stream to Lake Worth Inlet.
We made it safely back in company with NICOU and RIVERDANCE
We enjoyed our time so much that we decided to leave MYSTIC LOON at Fort Pierce, Florida where it is stored in the Harbortown Marina Boatyard. This coming winter we will return to cruise ???... somewhere WARM!!!
On April 20, 2002 we returned by car to Little Current which we had left on July 21, 2001 completing a dream-come-true nine month cruise.
Written June 5, 2002
Roy Eaton
