Magical Baja

Trip Start Jan 09, 2011
1
51
53
Trip End Oct 13, 2011


Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow

Flag of Mexico  , Baja California Sur,
Friday, September 23, 2011

We arrived at the port of La Paz on the Baja ferry after meeting up with Robert Halkett, an English guy who has spent the last three years peddling around the world; see: www.robsbikeride.com. He was a great guy and we kept meeting up with him as we travelled north and he stayed with us a few times.

For us we first headed south and more by good luck than any planning found our selves faced with our first 4WD track in ages. We took it and wound our way over the northern end of the Sierra de la Laguna back onto the coast of the Sea of Cortez - also known as the Gulf of California .... but we prefer the former! We found a great little spot to bush camp on a rocky bay where Ron went for a few snorkels around the rocky headlands. Then we spent another couple of nights at Los Barriles, a tourist town that has at least four RV parks but at this time of the year when it is bloody hot there are very few tourists around. We were the only ones in the park we stopped at - we prefer it that way!

From there we headed north, missing out (on purpose) on the very trendy fly-in resorts at Cabo San Lucas. Headed thru Ciudad Constitucion which is an agricultural town in a very arid region before crossing the spectacular Sierra de la Giganta to the town of Loreto. This region of impressive mountains plunging down to a turquoise sea is slated for a major developement and the first of the resorts have moved in.

We moved on ... cruising along the coast and coming to Bahia Concepcion where amongst the string of magical beaches we found Playa El Coyote. They don't come any better than this and we stayed here for a couple of nights going snorkelling from our inflatable canoe. Many people come here and stay a month or more ... we could see why, even though there are no facilities apart from palapa beach shelters and pit toilets.Of course being the first gringoes to stop here in ages the trinket and sourvineer sellers were quick to move in - the first guy, who was a real character, made a killing ... the rest missed out!

Further north we passed thru' the once French mining town of Santa Rosalia, but unlike what the guidebooks say about the place we saw nothing to attract us and we quickly passed through. Back on the Pacific coast, which is always cooler than the Gulf coast - but also drier and very flat and unimpressive - we came to the salt mining town of Guerrero Negro where they produce 7 million tonnes of the white stuff each year. 

Just south of this dusty town are the famous shallow lagoons of Baja where the grey whales come to each year to give birth to their young. The most famous of these is Scammon Lagoon of more rightly, Laguna Ojo de Liebre. Once down to just a couple of thousand animals there are now over 20,000 whales coming to Baja each year to give birth. The viewing of these animals is a major highlight of a trip to Baja in winter and they are much more sensible about how close you can get than our dictatorial regulations in Australia allow. Of course, we were there at the complete wrong time of the year so the only whales we saw were the murals, statues and paintings adorning cafes, hotels and restaurants. Damn ..... next time!

From here we dawdled north taking in more of what Baja has to offer .......

For overlanders and those with a particular bent on travelling this continent there's more access, driving and camping info. You'll find all that and more on the pages of www.guidebooks.com.au; just follow the links to our South American Overland page.

 
Slideshow Report as Spam

Use this image in your site

Copy and paste this html: