In the land of the great Turkmenbashi
Trip Start
Apr 25, 2010
1
29
32
Trip End
Nov 10, 2010
From Tashkent I crossed the great Kara-Kum desert in another slow train to Khiva, the old capital of a once powerful Khanate, where I spent a rather miserable afternoon climbing minarets and looking at plastic carrots and goats displayed in one of the many local museums.
But then things started to look up as I entered Turkmenistan, realm of the late great Turkmenbashi. In Turkmenistan they don't let you go off on your own to get lost, they really look after you from beginning to end. So I was met by a beautiful, intelligent young guide, who not only imparted her abundant knowledge of the country but even took me everywhere in taxis and bought me sweets when I was feeling sad. We had a marvellous (but painfully slow) train ride from the border to Ashgabat, where I was again treated to the wonderful hospitality and kindness of Central Asian people. As we arrived, Turkmenistan's great capital shone in the sunshine with its white marble buildings stretching into the distance - built at a frantic pace by the great Turkmenbashi and continued by the new president since his death four years ago. My guide showed me the numerous gold-painted statues of the former great leader, as well as his beautiful mausoleum, where he was finally reunited with his father, killed in WW2, and his mother and brothers, who died in the 1948 earthquake. Nearby is Central Asia's largest mosque, peppered with sayings from the Rukhnama, a history of the Turkmen people written by the great Turkmenbashi himself, a copy of which, in his wisdom, Turkmenbashi sent into space. Yes, they really know how to respect their leaders here. My only regret was that I was unable to see the great revolving gold statue of Turkmenbashi, which was closed for reconstruction several months ago. My only hope is that it reopens, bigger and more shiny and revolving even faster than before, so that the Turkmen people know exactly how great their leader really was.
But then things started to look up as I entered Turkmenistan, realm of the late great Turkmenbashi. In Turkmenistan they don't let you go off on your own to get lost, they really look after you from beginning to end. So I was met by a beautiful, intelligent young guide, who not only imparted her abundant knowledge of the country but even took me everywhere in taxis and bought me sweets when I was feeling sad. We had a marvellous (but painfully slow) train ride from the border to Ashgabat, where I was again treated to the wonderful hospitality and kindness of Central Asian people. As we arrived, Turkmenistan's great capital shone in the sunshine with its white marble buildings stretching into the distance - built at a frantic pace by the great Turkmenbashi and continued by the new president since his death four years ago. My guide showed me the numerous gold-painted statues of the former great leader, as well as his beautiful mausoleum, where he was finally reunited with his father, killed in WW2, and his mother and brothers, who died in the 1948 earthquake. Nearby is Central Asia's largest mosque, peppered with sayings from the Rukhnama, a history of the Turkmen people written by the great Turkmenbashi himself, a copy of which, in his wisdom, Turkmenbashi sent into space. Yes, they really know how to respect their leaders here. My only regret was that I was unable to see the great revolving gold statue of Turkmenbashi, which was closed for reconstruction several months ago. My only hope is that it reopens, bigger and more shiny and revolving even faster than before, so that the Turkmen people know exactly how great their leader really was.



