Railay rocks (and rockpools and stalactites)
Trip Start
Nov 06, 2009
1
56
354
Trip End
May 28, 2011
Railay, Krabi, Thailand
Wednesday, February 3, 2010
The 120km ride to Krabi was quite windy and we had to stop for a while for one of the passengers to throw up by the side of the road, but we eventually got to Krabi at around 11. There we waited another hour or so for the next minibus to take us to the pier, where again we waited for a boat. We finally arrived in Railay at around 2pm. We're gradually learning that Thai time is rather similar to Mexico time...
It was worth the waiting though. As we approached the peninsula we sped past towering limestone karsts jutting out of the water, with massive stalactities dangling down over little bays of pristine sand and clear turquoise water. It felt as though we were about to dock in paradise as we arrived in East Railay. The tide was in when we arrived, half submerging the mangrove trees on the beach which disappears at hightide, so we had to jump out of the boat into the water and carry our bags over our heads to get to the raised path and dry land.
Nat met us and showed us the way to the Diamond Cave Resort where she and Nadia had been staying the past couple of nights. Nat had somehow managed to negotiate a 50% reduction in their room rate - a basic but clean and spacious fan room with a double bed each and bathroom, and the resort even has a little swimming pool - bonus! She'd managed to reserve a room for us too at the same discounted rate so we were able to check in and dump our backpacks (which seem a lot heavier after not having carried them for a few weeks!) right away.
Had a good catch up with Nat and Nadia by the pool for a while then we all took a walk down to Phra Nang beach. Stunning, pristine sand and clear blue waters. At each end of the bay incredible rock formations twist along the coast, with trees, shrubs and the odd rock climber clinging precariously to the stalactities hanging down over the caves and rock pools full of pretty corals, bright green crabs and little fish.
One cave, the Princess Cave or Tham Phra Nang Nok, is the strangest looking shrine I've come across - full of little altars, incense burners and hundreds of wooden phalluses in every colour and size, some small, some enormous, all wrapped in pretty strips of coloured fabrics and garlands. It's dedicated to an ancient fertility goddess and local fisherman still leave offerings there in the hope of increased potency and prosperity.
Had a swim and a delicious fresh fruit shake from one of the longtail boat kiosks anchored up on the bay, met some of the resident monkeys who hang out along the cliffs trying their luck with passiing snacking tourists, then headed over to Railay West (the posh bit where the really smart resort hotels are) to watch the sunset over the beach there.
After a clean up back at our rooms we spent the rest of the evening having dinner and a few cocktails in Railay East, where the outdoor bars are lit up with candles and you sit in cushions on canvas decks overlooking the water and mangrove trees. We ended up in The Last Bar (Nat's favourite as they have shisha pipes for hire which she's been craving since leaving Bangkok as they are nowhere to be found in Khao Lak) drinking cocktails, listening to the live Mai Tai band which played lots of old Radiohead, grunge and Santana stuff, and watching some impressive firethrowers.
On Tuesday we explored the Tonsai area of Railay which is accessible either via and inland jungle path or along the beach from Pranah beach only when the tide is out. We took the latter route across the rockpools, desperately trying not to slip off the rocks onto live corals or dead jellyfish - no mean feat in slippery flip flops.
Tonsai is really popular with climbers and hippies as it has the best cliff faces and lots of reggae bars. But the best thing about it for me was the monkeys. Unlike the cheeky grey east side monkeys who've been spoilt by tourists and had no qualms about ripping an unopened crisp packet straight our of Nadia's hand the other day, the Tonsai monkeys are much harder to spot as they don't come down from the trees, but beautiful creatures. I don't know what exactly they are - black with white tufts on their heads and white around the eye sockets. Could have stayed there watching them all night but had to get back to Phra Nang beach beffore the tide came in.
Spent Tuesday evening in much the same way as the previous night, and this morning got up bright an early to have a final breakfast with Nat and Nadia before they left for Koh Phangan.
Predictably have spent the day by the pool and making the most of the beach again and will probably do so tomorrow as well, before saying goodbye to the sand and sea for some time as we leave for Phuket Town on Friday, and Vietnam on Saturday.
Comments
Gua!!! is just like another world!!! I cry and I laugh, please be very careful xxx