Tarifa Time
Trip Start
Jun 02, 2008
1
49
Trip End
May 01, 2010
Where I stayed
Tarifa, Andalusia, Spain
Saturday, October 16, 2010
Almost nothing but the wind matters to Andy and all the other surfers who pilgrimage to Tarifa's surf playground every year. The Levanter is the name for the strong easterly winds that reach up to 54km/h in the peak month, July. The Poniente - its opposite, is a warm and dry westerly wind that blows through the Straits of Gibraltar often accompanied by a swell.
I wander outside clutching my coffee. Tarifa beach is a long stretch of white sand with normally crystal clear waters of the Atlantic Ocean but Andy is right, the sand is starting to darken. Here marks the last stop for this vast ocean before it passes through the Gibraltar strait passing over the warmer heavy waters of the Mediterranean. If it wasn't for the Atlantic, the Med, like a vast inland lake with virtually no tidal system, would have no fresh water. Over the summer months, the red tuna come here to spawn, followed closely by the orcas – killer whales who feast on the tuna in July and August. A mass of boats advertise dolphin and whale watching trips. I take a trip with FIRMM, a company which focuses on the biology and conservation of these intelligent creatures. I'm stirred by the stories of the dangers faced by these creatures, who face constant noise pollution from the mass of ships that pass through the strait and the ever threat of torturours drift nets - still used off the coast of Africa to catch Tuna.
I've returned to Tarifa to spend some "Tarifa time" before heading back to Anton. I’ve been here before but never stayed...and i want to get a chance to feel what it’s like to live here. In mid-summer it’s almost impossible to get any kind of cheap accommodation. My first night I stay at the very tranquil Fawlty Fincas run by a Dutch guy, Thierry. I meet Thierry in the car park at Lidl. He pulls up in a beat up old land rover, jumps out, unshaven, a mop of curly dark hair hanging over his eyes and a broad grin. He greets me warmly kissing me on both cheeks. I like him immediately. We bump along an unmade track for about a kilometre passing fields full of horses and Thierry talks about Tarifa. He came here 6 years ago and has made a life for himself managing appartments, writing web sites and helping amongst other things with Thai yoga massage courses!. In Tarifa it’s a case of building your own life...see what fits. The winters can be grim he tells me. He spent a couple of full years here but this time he’s escaping. The winds that continue to whip around Tarifa in the winter may account for its highest suicide rate in the country...either that or its just too many broken hearts!
There are apparently 6 other guests but there’s no sign of them and I have the house to myself...at about 6ish two young German guys, arrive on bikes, looking exhausted. I mistake them for racers …their skin glistening with sweat, they look surprised and tell me they have just cycled from Tarifa in the blistering heat. We crack open some cold beers and go to view the scene from the roof top. From Tarifa you can see the coast of Africa, just 14 km and a fast 30 minute boat trip away. Around the town the landscape is rugged and unadulterated by the ugly sprawling urbanisations of the Costa del Sol. Perhaps Spains’ last wild frontier...
At breakfast next morning, I meet the other guests, two Dutch guys making the scenic white village route to Ronda and two Argentinians. There are it seems a lot of Argentinians in Tarifa and hence Tango is also popular. Thierry gives me a lift back in to Tarifa. We head for the Melting Pot – one of the nicest hostels in town, perfectly situated between the old town and the beach, with a small and homely feel…a nice lounge bar and friendly staff. The first night, the Levanter returns with avengeance. I’m in a mixed dorm, a loose description as it turns out I'm the only girl amongst four Danish kite-surfers and the two German cyclists …The Danish crash in in the early hours - breaking the silence, trying not to wake me..but im already awake listening to the wind. All night the Levanter whips around the room, picking up anything not tied down to the bedposts. Doors bang and crash all night so we build protective walls of bags …jamming the doors open to diffuse the intense heat...
Next morning, breakfast is basic but welcoming…cereals, toast and jams, tea and coffee are laid out and we help ourselves. I wander into town..the entrance to the old town is through the Puerta de Jerez, a 13th century arch wall which beckons you in to the labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets lined with boutique shops, small bars, restaurants, a market selling fresh produce - meat, fish and vegetables and a few night clubs tucked discretely away. It seems to work well, the city is alive by day and night and has a friendly laid back vibe..
In Tarifa there is a real International feel, it’s a mix of predominantly German, but also Scandinavian, Irish, English and French and just one Scott I know. For Tarifa offers more than just great beaches. It’s a mecca for all kinds of sports enthusiasts…climbers, cyclists, horse riders, spear fishermen and divers but the main sport is surfing. Here there are two camps…the old school wind surf enthusiasts and the new and ever increasing number of kite surfers…Chris who lived in Tarifa for three years, tells me kite surfing is easier to learn…it will take you about a week…but windsurfing can take years to get really good, plus you need more wind. The upside is, if you get into trouble, you can paddle back - its less easy with a kite. Until mid-September you can’t surf on Tarifa beach itself because of the dangers of colliding with swimmers so surfers head for the beautiful beaches of Valdevaqueros and beyond…Here the sky is lit up with a kaleidoscope of colour, a real spectacle to watch. But when the winds really get up then the windsurfers propel like lightning across the water …and here I see the added attraction.
In the late afternoon, as the winds drop and the waves swell, the stand-up surfers arrive paddling out, their dogs swimming in the surf behind them, deftly balancing on their boards. I watch them, this tranquil sport like Thai Chi on water. And as sunset approaches, we hang out in Gunlao …a stylish lounge bar with squashy white sofas overlooking the beach, in preparation for the night ahead.
Later in the old town we feast on tapas, pimientos and greta tasting solomillo - pork - and fresh tomatoes dressed with sea salt and oils, washed down with Rioja. As the night progresses we move from bar to bar…from the large atmospheric Missiana which plays Tango on Monday nights, to the small and friendly bars like Takota and Tomatito (little tomato!) and in the small hours the Mosqito and a myriad of other small clubs come alive. The serious revellers head out of town in taxis to Café del Mar to to dance into the morning...
For one week in September, the locals close up shop and party as the Tarifa Feria hits town. More than 300 horsemen and women enter the old city on horseback…marking the start of the feria. Men and women in traditional dress sit side by side on horses often with a small child balanced in the front- like a scene from the wild west. Music pumps loudly from the flamenco, salsa and dance tents as the Spanish party into the early hours. And as befits the Spanish, when the feria ends they take a day off to recover from the holiday!
As November draws in and winter beckons again, I sadly leave this little surf town…On my last night I go with friends to Zuco, a stylish bar high up on the hill overlooking the old town, I say goodbye to Raul the Tango teacher and we head to see flamenco in a tiny bar. There is a huge crowd at the door, The singer, like an ageing Elvis is dressed in a white jacket with matching shoes but his voice is bewitching. Next to him a striking Spaniard plays the guitar …my eyes fixate on him…a classic example of the beauty of the Spaniards…and I wonder how long it takes to really break the surface of that community.
The next day I leave this lovely little surf town of dog and surf lovers, shabby in places, but with a true international vibe and a passion for life that makes it truly addictive…
Some Facts about Tarifa...
See the killer whales in the summer or if your lucky out of season -- http://www.firmm.org/en/news/article/items/killer-whales-in-october.html
Bars: Gunlao - further down beach from old town, stylish lounge bar with breathtaking sunsets...
Bossa at entrance to old town - English bar great for internet and meeting friends
Takota - small and friendly German bar serving great mohitos if you don't mind being squished, Tomatito - meet all the Tarifa dudes here and prepare for the clubs with an eccentric barman, Missiana - stylish hotel bar..god for early evening drinks and Tango Monday nights,
Zuco - high on the hill with amazing views of old city - stylish with DJs and Tango on Thursday nights
Wireless Internet - almost everywhere but only one internet cafe in centre of old city close to church.
learn to Tango with Raul Mondays Missian, Tuesdays Eco centre lesson, Thursdays Zuco bar
stay - Melting pot hostel, Fawlty fincas - out of town or numerous campsites but you need a car to get into town.
Comments
Heyy mate... just read your entry... Hope your trip goes good. Well, lemme know if you ever come to India, I love to travel and make friends... Add me on facebook if you fancy - ww.facebook.com/chuha or search 'Shobhit Lunia'. I would be pleased to be your friend... would be travelling the whole world someday... would be glad to have you as a friend :D
Cheers