Gone Feral

Trip Start Apr 08, 2007
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Trip End Dec 22, 2007


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Flag of South Africa  ,
Saturday, May 5, 2007

Tuesday we had to make the hard decision to leave Cape St Francis and start to head north. We drove for 5 hours to get to East London. We didn't especially like it there as it is quite a big town, a bit hard to take after the natural beauty of Cape St Francis. We only stayed here one night, stocked up on food and Wednesday morning drove another 4 hours to Coffee Bay. On the way Pete got pulled over for speeding doing 114kms in a 100km zone (he thought it was a 120 zone), The fine was going to be 200 rand ($40 AUD) but once they realised Pete was Australian they all started talking about the cricket world cup and that Australia was "World Cup Champions" and he managed to talk his way out of it and they let him off, phew!!!

Coffee Bay is located in an area known as the "Transkei". We have been told it would be a little different to what we had already seen in South Africa and wouldn't be anything like we are used to and it certainly was different! The road to Coffee Bay had potholes all through it, there were many farm animals, goats, sheep, cows, massive bulls and even horses on the road that we had to avoid and an all black population, so we stuck out a bit.

The hills are dotted with traditional colourful mud brick Rondavells (circular thatched roof huts) that the Africans live in. All the little kids stand on the side of the road and yell out to you with their hands out "sweets" or "money". Very sad to see the poverty there but they all seem to be happy. We found accommodation perched on the side of a cliff over looking the ocean where we spent Wednesday night in.

Thursday we decided to go even more primitive and drive on a dirt road for 20 kms averaging about 30 kms hour over very bumpy roads until we reached Mdumbi Backpackers. The Backpackers consists of about 10 clay Rondavells which are situated on top of a hill overlooking the ocean. There is supposed to be an excellent point break but a huge swell last month stripped the point of all its sand. Life here is very basic and a big difference to what we have experienced so far. You are constantly offered marijuana, magic mushrooms, lobster, oysters or wood by the locals, so far we have resisted all offers although 2 lobsters for $1 is very tempting but these cheap ones have been out of the water and unrefrigerated for 10 hours plus so we gave it a miss. We spent a couple of hours down the beach, playing Frisbee (thanks Shane & Kate) and swimming. 400kms south west at Cape St Francis Pete was wearing his steamer in 17 degrees water, now its boardshorts and 24 degrees thanks to the Mozambique current.

We have decided to leave this Mdumbi today (Friday) to head back into civilization and some good food, internet and warm waves and weather. We are headed to the "South Coast", the coastal strip south from Durban to spend our last week and a bit in South Africa. More to come then...
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