A walk in the park and back to pre-mobile days

Trip Start Aug 07, 2009
Trip End Ongoing

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Flag of Tajikistan  , Gorno-Badakhshan,
Sunday, September 27, 2009

I take a bus down to the bazaar which is a desultory affair on Sunday. Only a few stall selling some fruit and vegetables. Khorog on Sunday has as much life as a wet Sunday in the Highlands of Scotland in the sixties. It is quiet and sleepy and nothing much seems to happen. I walk to where the rivers Gunt and Wakhan meet and take a few pictures but the light is bad and I'm not hopeful. I put my hand in my pocket. No mobile. NO MOBILE! Funny how I constantly moan about them but now I've got so attached and dependent on the damned thing, like most other people. I can only think it fell out of my pocket in the bus or somewhere along the way. I really, really should not be let out on my own!

I retrace my steps through the town to visit the park again. It is a beautifully landscaped piece of work amidst towering mountains and the constant danger of rockslides. Khorog stretches along both banks of the River Gunt in a narrow valley. Huge cliffs and mountains tower above the town. Boulders sit precariously above ready, it seems, to come hurtling downwards and obliterate the town. That doesn't stop new building continuing. It is the campus for the Central Asia University and a huge expansion is underway.

People are strolling peacefully along the walkways or sitting on the benches. The park is a place to relax and think. Not only is it well designed it is also well maintained. I love the way it is laid out. It is delightfully restful.

I return to the homestay to work out what to do in the absence of the mobile. I wait at the bustop in the hope that the bus will pass by again. No. Sam dials the mobile, it rings but no answer. I go to town to get a telephone card. Post Office closed. I go to an internet cafe. Cannot connect. Not my day. Back to the homestay and a light supper with Sam, Cheryl, Elsa and Anne, two young women who have returned after a tour of the Wakhan.

Who needs a mobile anyway?
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