Reykjavik and Pingvellir
Trip Start
Jul 11, 2011
1
5
Trip End
Aug 11, 2011
Reykjavík, Iceland
Saturday, October 1, 2011
Here are one person's humble observations during his month-long visit to Iceland to hopefully answer some of these questions. Icelanders are kind, considerate, good humored, efficient, clean, blonde but not all blonde, very community-minded, and except for their community pools strict guidelines and procedures, tend to lean toward flexibility rather than rigidity as far as strict rule adherence goes.
I have seen no street panhandlers, a first for any country where I've traveled, and a sense of calm and safety permeates the city streets. Other notable characteristics include a trusting atmosphere as exemplified by a campground payment honor system and an appreciation for the public good demonstrated by a national parklands free access policy (no park fees).
Is Iceland really a modern, progressive society? Well, they have a mayor who thinks he’s a stand-up comedian and have recently elected a president who is a lesbian. A live and let live attitude especially in the country’s capital seems to exist. In Reykjavik, the Gay Pride parade in early August is celebrated with gusto and frivolity in the downtown streets, while fashion chic, wildly individualistic attire and an active art and coffeehouse scene all contribute to a rather progressive societal tone.
The standard of living among Icelanders still appears quite high as living costs are still considerably expensive in Iceland. I can only imagine how expensive Iceland must have been before the financial crisis struck the Iceland financial system over three years ago, hurting their economy. As one gentleman fisherman sardonically put it, "the city people have to live with only one Mercedes now".
Iceland has a very small population, slightly above 300,000 people, or as Kurt Vonnegut once described this small nation, there’s "more people in his hometown Rochester, New York than all of Iceland." Yet, Iceland’s economies are varied and innovative. By harnessing the abundant hydroelectric and geothermal power sources, Iceland’s renewable energy industry provides over 70 percent of all the nation’s primary energy needs.
Iceland has explored the feasibility of exporting hydroelectric energy via submarine cable to mainland Europe and also actively seeks to expand its power-intensive industries, including aluminum and ferro-silicon smelting plants. Local environmentalists have expressed serious concern with these particular activities.
Other economies include the fishing industry, woolen goods, machinery and electronic equipment for the fishing industry, software production, biotechnology, and ecotourism. Of course, I witnessed rapid expansion in the milk production industry at the Cow Café!
This small island nation is also a European country and a member of NATO. So what if there are more Icelandic horses than people, these Icelanders are on the map baby!
And speaking of maps, I met an Icelandic woman whose stepfather makes Iceland’s maps, which for a country that loves its maps, must keep him extremely busy! I’m a map lover traveler myself so after thirty days seeing an Iceland map in every hotel lobby, hostel, campground, visitor center, truck stop, bathroom, restaurant, bus station, etc., I had Iceland’s geography and topography so memorized I could walk across the country blindfolded. No GPS for me!
And speaking of babies, that statistical population figure might need to be adjusted higher, considerably higher soon judging by one very noticeable item you see on the Reykjavik and Akureyri sidewalks… a baby stroller. I do believe making babies is also experiencing a production boom in Iceland, for in just one hour's span while I sat at a Reykjavik coffeehouse I saw over two dozen baby strollers past by my window.
Strong-minded independent thinking may also be an Icelandic trait. Two such indications are these: first, Icelanders have an affinity and affection for Kurt Vonnegut books, the few English language novels you find in a local bookstore and second, the recent pots and pans peaceful revolution, a response by the citizens several years ago to the corrupt and incompetent handling of the financial system by the politicians and bankers. The movement helped oust the sitting president during the financial crisis and elect a reformist, the current woman president.
And too, to survive Iceland’s winter months, which are many, in the rural countryside you have to be a strong individual and adept at survival skills.
Many classic stories have been inspired by these real life Icelandic characters. Hemingway’s Old Man and the Sea is most likely based on an Icelandic fisherman and even the movie Bate’s Motel or at least some other contemporary horror movie may have its inspirational origins in the story of a 17th century innkeeper on the remote Snaefellsness Peninsula who over the course of forty years, murdered and buried many of his guests in the backyard!
Whether its Iceland’s harsh climate or northern isolation, few animals are indigenous to Iceland. Marine animals are the most common; birds, fish, whales, etc. The sturdy small horse known as an Icelandic horse originated with the early Viking settlers migrating from Norway and has remained a pure breed, easily adapting to its new environment. Domestic animals such as sheep and dairy cows are plentiful too. To the very remote northern reaches the beautiful white fox can be seen and the occasional lost polar bear who stumbled upon a floating Greenland iceberg will arrive on Iceland’s shore. Regretfully his life usually ends quickly at the hands of a local with a rifle.
Iceland is considered one of the most egalitarian nations (although I’m sure that same polar bear would beg to differ). This commendable recognition probably has its historical roots in the democratic origins of Pingvellir.
Pingvellir is a much revered locale in Iceland, a place of great historical, cultural and geological significance. Over a thousand years ago, the original settlers gathered on the vast grassy plains, ate a nice picnic lunch, and established the first democratic elected parliament, Alpingi. This event took place centuries before such notions rooted themselves throughout the rest of Europe. The Viking chieftains comprised the Alpingi, or Assembly, and maintained Iceland’s Commonwealth rule for over 300 years.
Christianity as the official Iceland religion was also determined here at Pingvellir. After much handwringing, grumbling and I’m sure a fair amount of arm wrestling, the final decision was given to the revered head chieftain and like some official at a highly contentious soccer match, he stoically announced the religious winner for Iceland to be Christianity. Much grumbling and rejoicing ensued. That said paganism did come in a close second.
Pingvellir continues its prominence as a central meeting place for important political and social occasions, as well as center stage for international events, including Reagan and Gorbachev’s historic meeting and, a visit from the pope celebrating a thousand years of practicing Christianity.
Geologically, Pingvellir is a remarkable region. Here too the two tectonic plates, the North American and the European, join, yet their volatile junction rests incongruously with the otherwise pastoral grass plains and placid lake surroundings. You can visually see the earth splitting along the craggy fissure demarcation.
I hope through this entry and my others, I’ve answered those Iceland questions, and a few more. The trip was a great one and I shall be back again someday; in the summertime of course. As my plane rose past Iceland’s remaining coastal outline I could see a small boat being towed out to sea by what looked like a humpback whale. Was that Sven on that boat waving?
To Be Continued...????
To see more of my photography and travel books, please visit: www.michaelmcguerty.com
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To view my Iceland video, please visit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUKZJYOW06U
