Day 5: A near-death experience OR Ice, Ice, Baby!
Trip Start
Jul 24, 2010
1
10
12
Trip End
Jul 31, 2010
Seward, Alaska
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Seward……a near-death experience OR Ice, Ice baby!
(via Angela)
Paula had coffee this morning, which clearly did her brain some good because she came up with a GREAT idea! Since we missed our flightseeing tour in Talkeetna, she checked out Seward, which has helicopter flightseeing tours. Mom and dad were interested, but declined. I hoped this wasn’t a bad sign.
To pass the time before the flightseeing tour…….on one side of the campground was a super steep incline that led to the top of an open clearing on part of the mountain. It was somewhat high up, so we couldn’t see what was up there, but my dad really wanted to find out. We tried yesterday, but he had forgotten his camera, and really wanted to be able to capture the view…..especially if nothing was up there. My dad is optimistic that way. So, off we go. We made it to the top, and thankfully my dad had his camera, as there wasn’t too much up there. Just a clearing, piled so much with chopped trees that there was no possible path through it. We did discover some scat. At least I’m hoping – really, really hoping – that it was scat. Otherwise, someone out there needs more fiber.
Paula and I went to the Seward “airport” and met the pilot, Eric (my ex’s name). I hoped this wasn’t a bad sign. He seemed like a nice enough guy. We also met Holly, a “musher” that was going to go with us. Holly normally works with the dog sled team on Exit Glacier, but I guess we needed a “musher,” since Eric was going to leave us for about 30 minutes. I hoped this wasn’t a bad sign.
We got some disconcerting preflight instructions, like how to open the door quickly, in an emergency, and where the PFD’s (life jackets) were. We all got earphones and mic’s…….and then we took off. On the way out Paula was in the front with Eric, so she could take pictures, and I was in the back with Holly. This was the first time my sister and I had been up in a helicopter. Take off was very smooth, and soon we were heading up and out. I’m no expert on helicopters, but this one was small. It must have been one of the smallest, as there seemed no opportunity to get any smaller. Maybe a 2 seater as opposed to a 4 seater. But I digress. The whole top part was primarily clear, so we could see EVERYTHING. It was cozy, if you can use such terms when talking about helicopters. It was almost like flying in a chair. Or maybe a loveseat. With one of those bubble umbrella’s from the 70’s. A really big one.
I can’t begin to describe this experience. Suffice it to say that I was speechless. For those of you that know me, you will know what a big deal this was. While we were flying out to the glacier, Paula talked. For those of you that know her, you will know what a big deal this was.
We saw a huge eagle’s nest on the very top of a huge tree near the shore line. We flew over the town, across the bay, and into the lagoon with all the icebergs and chunks of ice floating around. On two of these were several seals. We flew over them…..because we could. Eric landed the helicopter on shore RIGHT next to the lagoon and the icebergs. We managed to exit without being decapitated. He was picking up 3 kayakers. The helicopter service works with a kayaking service and flies people out to the lagoon. There are several kayaks and all the gear that stay out there. He drops off the people; they get the boats and head out in the lagoon. I talked to the kayakers about the experience, listened to their exaltations, and shed a few tears.
But I persevered to make the most of this kayak-free experience. The kayakers boarded the helicopter and Eric took off. Holly just hung out, and didn’t try to mush us, which was nice. And we were glad to have her, as she had the bear spray.
We walked all around, and just soaked it up. Paula took a few pictures (ha). Holly told us this story about a guy who brought his girlfriend out here. He found a rock with a heart shaped quartz line running through it and proposed to her. For any singles out there reading this, I would definitely suggest this spot if you are going to propose. Or break things off. Might take the sting out.
The rocks on shore were really, really cool. Paula has a picture or two. The patterns, the size, the shape. They were packed in. I looked hard for a heart shaped rock for Bob……and I found one! Perfect asymmetrical heart, perfect shape for an artist. Holly also told us about people that come out here and swim out to the icebergs…..in their bathing suits or less. Brrrrrrrrrrrr. I don’t know exactly how cold that water is, but I know it is cold enough to keep icebergs frozen. Cold enough to keep icebergs frozen = too cold to swim in……..if you are sane or don’t like hypothermia.
We were there for about 2 minutes – or so it seemed – when we heard the helicopter returning. I checked with Paula to confirm, so I can tell you with complete confidence: we both could have stayed out there for a bit longer. We managed to get back on the helicopter without being decapitated, and this time I was in front. And I was, once again, speechless. Or almost. My vocabulary consisted, primarily, of “awesome” “beautiful” “amazing.” Short words like that. Sometimes I managed to string along 2 or even 3 words together. Eric flew further inland on the return, so we went over the peaks and mountains. Paula got a few pictures.
This trip, and this specific experience, have been life changing. I’m not exactly sure how it has changed my life, but I know it has. And I will figure it out.
We landed, and once again skillfully exited sans decapitatation. Then we sat in the car, just looking at each other and talking about the experience a little. And we decided to get our Dad this flightseeing tour for an early Christmas present. And we decided that Paula will take helicopter lessons, then we will run a business out here where she flies them out, and I take them kayaking. I hope Bob and Steffan are okay to move here.
We sallied forth to the Alaska SeaLife Center. This is Alaska’s only public aquarium. The best part: they are a rescue, rehabilitate and release aquarium. The Stellar sea lion and the seals that were there will be released at some point. We saw indigenous sea life: fish, jellyfish, birds, a giant Pacific octopus, King crabs, etc., etc., etc. Paula got a few pictures, despite being dive bombed by a Puffin early on. See the attack….caught on film.
We made it back to the camper in time for my mom’s excellent dinner, with my recently purchased wine. Camping is so hard.
Paula and I lost it about halfway through the meal, acting out Bob’s advice for bear encounters and bear attacks: talk like Timothy Treadway. Maybe it was the wine. Or the exhaustion. But it was hilarious.
We half-heartedly talked about building a fire, but it’s just not as appealing when it’s still daylight. And we had some packing to do……..
(via Paula)
The helicopter tour over Glacier Bear Lagoon was one of the most amazing things I've done in my life. I'm glad the photos captured some of the beauty.
And I'm relieved to have survived the Puffin dive bomb.
Whew, what a dangerous and exciting day.
