The Deep South
Trip Start
May 06, 2009
1
17
25
Trip End
Jun 30, 2009
Catanzaro, Calabria, Italy
Saturday, June 13, 2009
headed to Girifalco; a small town of 8,000 in the province of Cantanzaro, Calabria. It is located high up in the mountains, surrounded by rolling hills and sandwiched on both sides by the Tyrrenhian and Ionian Seas. Girifalco is an ancient town, and it was here that my Nonno and Nonna (grandfather and grandmother) were born, raised, and married, and where my mother (Rosina) and uncle (Rocco) were born (in what is now termed "the historical part of town"). We stayed with Liberata, my Nonna's neice, who is now about 70 years old. Luca (Liberata’s son) picked us up from La Mezia train station and drove (very fast,and often in the middle of the road) 20 minutes to Girifalco (it takes the average person 35 minutes), as you follow the winding roads through the mountain. The view was most unique—thousands upon thousands of beautiful olive trees decorated the hills, which give "rolling" its true definition. Beyond the hills, you can see the sea, which provides a nice, as Italians often say,“panorama.” I can now picture the stories that Nonna used to tell us about picking the olives, figs and lemons.
Liberata and Maria Rosa were both awaiting our arrival. Liberata showed us up to our very own private apartment, and explained that she laid out about fifty different towels for different uses/purposes. She had synthetic, lycra, cotton; towels for your hands, your face, and for your body. I’m not sure if this is more creepy than sentimental, but we stayed in the same room and slept in the same bed that my parents did when they came on their two-month honeymoon in 1972—after being married in the same church. Amazing. Liberata showed us her collection of
family photos, and I even saw the statue of Nonna Elisabetta (Nonna’s mother; my great grandmother) that Zio Francesco sculpted. Of course, the next question was, “have you eaten?” Liberata made us the traditional family dish of potatoes and fresh green beans, just like Mommy and Nonna make. After dinner, Liberata took us on a walk of the town. As it was about 9pm, there were no women on the streets; only men who were drinking, strolling the streets and playing cards (reminded me of James Street). We bumped into a man that Liberata said was one of my relatives, and it so happened to be Domenic Giampa (Caterina Conaci’s husband—Uncle Tony’s sister).So, we obviously had to make an appearance at their home as well. I also met my third cousin, Adelle, who already knew Aunt Liz from Facebook. She seemed vexed that I did not have a Facebook account, and so settled for a picture of both Paul and I (which, we’re both certain, will appear on Facebook immediately).They offered to take us to Il Mare (the sea, as they say) at Squillace, but Paul and I didn’t want to spoil Liberata’s plans for us.
The next day, Liberata took us on a tour of the historical part of town (Pioppi—or Ciuppi, as you say in Calabrese dialect). This is where Nonna Elisabetta and Nonno, and Zio Vincenzo
lived. I was hoping she wouldn’t say, “and this is where your mother and Rocco were born,” as the houses were as big as tiny bathrooms, and of course they’re all in ruins now! I’m kidding, Mom. In fact, the former houses were really interesting to see, and the view was amazing. We also saw the house where you were born (via Fratelli Bandieri) and Paul and I took lots of photos and video. We visited Chiesa di San Rocco, and bumped into one of Nonna’s old friends (I think her name is Rosa)? In any case, I took a photo of her as well, as I’m sure Nonna will be happy to see her. After the full family tour, Liberata took us to the market. When we arrived home, Liberata had me help her make homemade pasta. We rolled the dough into long round tubes, and then cut them short and slid them against a wooden pattern maker, so they turned out ribbed. Paul or Dad will have to make me one of these contraptions, as it’s really easy to make fresh pasta, and oh so tasty! Liberata said I could use the side of a wicker basket as well. After lunch, we visited the cemetery, and saw the graves of Nonno and Nonna, Zio Francesco, and Liberata’s husband. Luca then took us to the beach, while he attended to a business appointment. Liberata was eager to come along, but because she was dressed in black (still in mourning, as her husband only passed 8 months ago), I couldn’t leave her sitting by herself in the shade, while we explored the beautiful, tempting beach. So, I told Paul to save himself and take a walk, or dip his feet in. He did just that. After dinner, Maria Rosa’s husband picked us up and took us to their farm, only five minutes up the road from Liberata’s. They had artichoke and lemon trees, and 500 olive trees (they produce more than 700 litres of olive oil each year). They also introduced us to Natalina, their donkey. She was very big and very strong (Paul and I were a bit afraid at first because she barreled out of her stall and began running around, full force). Paul managed to take her by the bit, and I snapped a picture of the two of
them. We sat and chatted in their house for a few hours, and we met their son, Giuseppe, and his wife and daughters. They were born and raised in Switzerland, and only moved to Calabria five years ago. Giuseppe was nice enough to offer us a ride to the station early the next morning, and Maria Rosa and her husband made Paul and I promise that we would visit again in the next four years. Family trip, for sure, Mom! We had an amazing time, and would love
to return. I say that the Infanti’s and Oliveira’s should take a trip and visit Friuli and Calabria (Paul and I can now show you guys around), and then visit Portugal, where Dad can take the
reigns there! 2014. Let’s do it. The Cunha’s can also plan to be there too!
