Wolf Attack and a Witch Doctor

Trip Start Nov 01, 2011
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Trip End Nov 01, 2012


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Flag of Mongolia  , Hövsgöl,
Sunday, September 2, 2012

Although Charlie and I committed to 20 days camping, after 11, we jumped at the chance to stay at a tourist camp. Spending the evening bathing in the hot spring and sleeping well in our warm Gir (a style of mongolian home)

The next morning we spent a full day driving North to Terh Lake making a couple of stops on the way to appreaciate some of the views, then another full day driving to reach Mongolia's second city Moron.

In Moron we said goodbye to Niels who was returning back to Ulan Bataar because of time restrictions, and stocked up on supplies before heading 3 hours north to Khosgul Lake

The plan was to finish the trip with three relaxing days at Khovsgul lake. The stay was very pleasant although I can assure you that the lake was much colder than some of the swimming pictures suggest.

On our third day we witnessed what was the highlight of our stay in Mongolia, and maybe the highlight of the trip to date. As Charlie and I were returning from a hike, we saw two Yak bulls respond to the distress call of a female Yak. We turned to see what was going on, and saw a wolf come dashing out from the forest and attempted to separate the Yak from her calves. We rather stupidly went in for a better look and the wolf spotted us. He immediately froze starring straight back. At the same time the two clumsy bulls arrived and attempted to gore the wolf. The wolf was able to effortlessly dodge them whilst keeping his eyes trained on us, before deciding we were a threat and trotted back in to the forest.

It was a great finish to our stay on the lake and made the three day drive back to Ulan Bataar much easier.


Back to Ulan Bataar

Although the views were sublime the drive back to UB was very long and was only broken up by stopping to eat and stopping to camp. On the morning of the third day Charlie fell very ill and we were not able to hit the road until she was feeling a bit better.

Our very traditional driver Dawa asked around the little town we were staying in for a doctor, and came back with a shaman doctor.

We imagined that the doctor would give Charlie some herbs or something. We were all very shocked when he started examining Charlie, which then caused him to start burping and gagging.

He then played a couple of notes on a small metal instrument, took a big gulp of vodka and then spat it all over Charlie! Things then got worse as he started pushing hard in to Charlie's stomach whilst vomiting in to the bin. Charlie then had to take a sip of vodka, whilst the Shaman prayed for her. He then ordered 30minutes rest for Charlie and the ordeal ended.

After 30 minutes rest Charlie did not feel any better just sticky from the vodka, but she decided to hit the road anyway, and we got back to UB late that night.



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