Mediterranean shape-shift

Trip Start Jun 05, 2006
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Trip End Aug 22, 2006


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Flag of Turkey  ,
Thursday, July 13, 2006

I spent this one smoky evening wandering inside the ruins of an ancient amphitheatre in the small city of Kas, still settling into the festive atmosphere and warm haze of water-pipe aromas. Difficult now to be so removed from the stillness and calm of my four days in Faralya, harder still to make sense of the bustle of crowds. I noticed a family perched on the steps with a huddle of large black dogs. The hounds' gnarled paws made sharp clomping sounds against the stone steps as I watched them feast on grass growing out from cracks in the rock.

It was at this moment that I realized they were not in fact dogs, but wild goats from the nearby cliffs.

On my return walk to the hostel, a potbellied American man decked out in home-team apparel and wraparound shades (at night, no less) gestured boisterously at me, asking "Hey, how do you say 'hello' in Turkish? It's shalom, right?"

"No, actually it's merhaba"

"OH! Milabuh. Gotcha. That's exactly what I said to this lady at my hotel, but she just..." I could hear him trailing off as I quickly ducked out around a corner.

Back at my empty hillside hostel, overlooking the wide expanse of deep black ocean and the busy grid of lights down below, I learned from an e mail that Beth was heading back en route to Turkey. Some unfortunate business at her volunteer workcamp in Montenegro led her to a wild detour up to Belgrade, and then back through Bulgaria, finally returning to the comfort and chaos of Turkey. As I sat there picking burrs and brambles from my threadbare clothes (from an accidental detour of my own earlier in the day, falling into a sea of thorns on the side of some cliff in search of the Lycian tombs), I corresponded with her.  We settled on a plan to rendezvous at the treehouse-town of Olympos the following day.
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