Loose Lattakia
Trip Start
May 28, 2008
1
9
10
Trip End
Nov 07, 2008
Lattakia, Syria
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
I could see that Syria was going to be the challenge I had expected, but I was prepared for it and eager to take it by the horns.
Did mention Lattakia is on the coast of Syria? Its got the whole 'Med feel' going there so I was in search of its beaches. Did I also mention the beaches, to the ignorant like me, are nearly impossible to find? Well, now I have. Somehow, on my second day there, I managed to get lost and rudely told off for not being able to speak Arabic. Instead I went in search of the Roman Arch which is situated on the outside of a little slum and opposite what seemed to be some kind of park. Despite Hakim's good instructions, I still couldn't find the taxi rank or the taxi or the people to help in order to get there. How grand! I am in search of water and there is none around except the massive harbour. Needless to say, I did find my way back to the station where I got off the bus... I didn't need that stupid cab after all!
When I first got to Lattakia I was in search of cheap accommodation due to the fact I was running out of money fast. I searched hi and low for my hotel but it just didn't appear and with the weight of my ruck-sack, had to give in for a short while so I stopped for coffee and cultural enrichment. During Ramadan, very few people cheat the ritual but there are a few that sit in the 'coffee shops' and smoke sheesha and drink tea. It was pleasant to sit there and watch this world go by, even though I had no idea where I was sleeping. A guy had sat next to me and struck up conversation. His name was Hakim, he worked for the government in the day and tour guided in the afternoon. His friend also had an apartment to rent, for a price outside my broken budget. I could afford a place for S£150, he wanted S£500-S£600.
Whilst we chatted about politics ( the Israeli ones got my neck hot due to the tattoo ) and destinations and his country, his tennis coach came over. The old guy pulled out his local tobacco and rolled a smoke, I followed suit and this clearly caught his eye. After sniffing the bag and its rich contents, I decided to show a gesture that would hopefully stand me in good steed with these fellows, so I gave him a bag of my Golden Virginia. In pure happiness, he offered me and my new friend an evening at the 'coffee shop' for some tea and sheesha. How delighted I was! My first encounter of random invitations! Soon after the coach left, Hakim turned to me and informed me I could stay in his friends apartment for free, for as long as I wanted. My guard was up as soon as I walked into the apartment. I never knew how this was possible. Ok, so I have a kitchen, sit-down toilet, hot shower and a bed to sleep in but...what's the catch?
Hakim pointed out that the chicken shop down on the corner was good with chicken sandwiches and by golly was he right! Not only was the chicken good but the gent, who made it, made it with such pride. The garlic mayo, with gherkins on then lightly fried pita bread and all rolled up, was tasty and filling.
After filling my stomach ( food is only essential for survival, if it tastes good that's a bonus ), I went to rendezvous with Hakim in the place we met. He wasn't there. My mind began running : " does he have a key to the flat, is he stealing my stuff?" I decided to run back and gather the things I couldn't be without. I then went to find him again. Which I couldn't, so I ended up wandering around for 30mins just taking in the smells of this city. In the streets rammed with young people, bright lights and hooting cars, you can walk into different smells every 2 meters. From a bakery to a sweet shop or 'coffee shop'. even the smell of rubbish on the streets blends into this general smell of existence. You get this all over the place but for some reason it really stuck out here in the 'un-conservative' part of Syria.
Eventually I found Hakim back at the flat, he did have another key but all was safe and sound. Don't get me wrong here, I mean what would you do if you had just been offered what I was?
We got in his car, took a long way around to the other side of town where his friends were waiting with sheesha and tea. After the introductions, the coach handed me a small case. It was a cigarette case with some hand rolled cigarettes. How this guy plays tennis at his age when he smokes those things I do not know but he does! It was a interesting evening, considering most of it was in silence for me. Looking around and seeing youths playing cards very intently instead of drinking beer and antagonising woman, was assuring. Gazing across the road and seeing to gents sucking on a sheesha with tea, under the street lamp and their table borrowed from the 'coffee shop', I began to realise this culture has a very different view on entertainment. It was warming to see men sitting chatting about life over tobacco and tea, instead of getting rowdy over football and woman, with beer and joints.
I climbed into bed after drinking a few beers that were in the fridge ( yes you can get them but they are pricey. ). I watched the traffic go by and policemen chase a taxi driver up a one-way road. What the hell it was all about I don't know but it was too amusing! Not only does the chaos of the traffic never stop, but neither do the horns of the cars!
