Tuisuga metsas
Trip Start
Mar 04, 2012
1
9
16
Trip End
Mar 11, 2012
Enontekiö, Lapland, Finland
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Taevas on täis ebasõbralikku nägu pilve, tuiskab näkku. Võin ette kujutada, et olen polaarekspeditsioonil.
Teisel pool järve põkkun põdrataraga. Üks koht sobiks küll üleronimiseks, aga kuna ma pole kindel, kas ka teisel pool on säherdune koht, jätan selle mõtte katki. Kusagil peab tara lõppema. Mägi jääb vasakule, suundun siis sealtpoolt ringi. Metsa all vajub hoolimata räätsadest päris sügavale lumme (rääts ei tee Jeesuseks, isegi lumes mitte), lähen tagasi järvele. Järvel vajub vahelduva eduga. Kohtun saanirajaga, mööda seda on kõvem astuda. Järv on igasugu radu risti ja põiki täis, kenasti okste ja/või punaste-siniste tokkidega tähistatud.
Aed jätkub ja jätkub. Korraks tundub isegi, et leidsin kahe aia piiri. Vinnan ennast mööda järsku kallast üles, aga ei midagi, aed jätkub lihtsalt kaugemalt metsa sees. Kusagilt peaks mäe suunas minema suusarada. Raja peal ei tohi küll ilmselt koperdada, aga aias peab vähemalt seal mulk sees olema.
Suusarada leidubki pärast ca 2,5 kilomeetrit vantsimist. Kenasti masinaga sisselükatud, kahel pool klassikajälg ja keskel lai triibustik uisu jaoks. Keskmine osa kannab ka räätsu ja on piisavalt kõva, et väga jälgi ei jääks. Keegi on mööda seda ka juba räätsadega paterdanud. Veidi aja pärast tuleb selja tagant suusataja. Suusatajad liiguvad neetult vaikselt ja ehmatavad inimest. Silt näitab, et mäe otsa on 6,5 km. Mis siis viga, sinna lähen küll ära. Siis rada hargneb. Mäge näitab mõlemasse suunda. Kaarti nende siltide juures ei ole. Lähen paremale. Kohtun rajatraktoriga, siis kahe lõunamaalasega, kelle räätsajälgi ennist nägin. Nemad juba tagasiteel, abiks suusakepid. Natuke metsa, siis ületan tugevas vastutuules miskise järve. Järve ääres on laavu, sees küpsetustarvikud ja muidu väga vnks-vonks koht. Oleks ikka pidanud midagi süüa kaasa võtma. Ja juua. Söön lund. Kaart näitab, et vale rada. St seda mööda saab ka mäeni, aga hirmus pika ringiga. Otsustan mitte minna tagasi, vaid edasi ja vaadata järgmises hargemiskohas, mis seis on. Järgmised 4 km läbin ilmselt rekordajaga. Suusaneiu tuleb uuesti, jälle selja tagant.
Järgmine silt. Mäe-nimeline kohvik (rahakott kui mittevajalik on elutoas laual) on 2,7 km, sealt mäeni 3,3 km ja üles 2,2 km. Hettani tagasi 5 km ja sealt koju ca 3 km. Kell on pisut kaks läbi, 12,.. km seljataga. Kõht tühi, janu. Aga mäe otsa tahaks. Kõik kokku tuleks 30 km kanti, lõpp jääks pimeda peale, räätsadega kulgemine pole mingi meelakkumine jne. Tuisk matab kohati raja enda alla ja isegi valges on selle jälgimine keeruline. Üleni valge maastik ei tee pealegi kauguste hindamist üldse mitte lihtsaks. Lähen kilomeetri võrra edasi, istun veidi kuuse all ja tulen tagasi. Eks neid mägesid ole enne ka nähtud.
Räätsad nõuavad erilist jalad harkis liikumisstiili, mis põlvedele ei meeldi. Kõvemate kohtade peal võtan räätsad kätte. Lisaks litsuvad kinnitused saapa niimoodi vastu jalga, et saabas hakkab pahkluu kohalt hõõruma. Oleks ma alguses teisele poole läinud, oleks juba üleval käidud... Tagasitee on üsna vaevaline. Teeristis jõuab mulle järgi suuskadel Soome abielupaar, kinitavad, et tõesti oleks teist teed pidi kiiremini saanud. Nad tulid minu jälgi pidi. Uurivad põhjalikult, mis kell alustasin ja kui palju juba kõndinud olen. Lõpetuseks nendib meespool, et vähemalt olen saanud palju värsket õhku. Tõepoolest! Mägi mäeks, ikka on olnud äge. Kui vaid kuidagi koju jõuaks. Seal on saun, süüa, õlu, ...
Järvel on tugev tuul. Ühest servast on taevas tumesinine, teisest kollakashall. Lund tuiskab hoogsalt.
Kokku koguneb 20,2 km, liikumisaeg 6,5 tundi.
Saun on soe! Ja kamin köeb hubaselt. Laval istudes on mõnus kuulata, kuidas tuul ümber maja vuhiseb. Eriti mõnus on teada, kuidas see seal õues välja nägi ja tundus.
Täna igal pool pilv ja öine autosõit jääb ära. Homme pilve sees auk Rootsis.
At half past eight ringing alarm-clock doesn't seem very nice. Still I get up and go to shower. Clothes on, unnecessary things out from pockets (or so I think at the time), snow shoes on and over the lake the trip starts. About 10 kms away is a mountain called Pyhäkero, 711 meters high. Actually I meant the lower hill visible across the lake at first, but we'll see. If I have some energy left after climbing this then I can continue.
The sky is full of unfriendly cloud and wind beats the snow against my face. I can imagine being on a polar expedition.
On the other side of the lake I bounce with a rain-deer fence. A place would be good for climbing over but since I'm not sure if there will be a place like that on the other side, I abandon the thought. The fence has to end somewhere. The mountain is a bit to the left so I start going around that direction. In the forest I sink into snow pretty deep despite the snow shoes (these don't make you into Jesus, even not in snow). I go back on the lake. The snow is not so deep there. There are some motor-sledge tracks that are harder and easier to walk on. The lake is criss-crossed with various tracks, nicely marked with tree branches or blue-red sticks.
The fence goes on and on. At some point it seems there's a gap. I climb up the steep bank but no, the fence continues further away in the forest. Somewhere should a ski-track go towards the mountain. It's probably not allowed to walk on the track but at least there has to be a hole in the fence.
It's about 2,5 kms to the ski track. Carefully made with a tractor, classical track on both sides and in the middle space for skate skiing. The middle part is hard enough to walk on it with snow shoes without leaving much traces. Someone has already walked there on snow shoes. After some time a skier approaches from behind. They move very quietly and can scare you. A sign says it's 6,5 kms to the mountain. Not much, I can do that. Then the trail forks. It shows both directions to the mountain. No map there. I go to the right and meet to southerners whose snow shoe traces I saw earlier. They are going back already, with the help of ski poles. Some forest, then crossing a lake with heavy headwind. There's a cabin by the lake and it looks like a nice place for picnic. I should of taken some food with me. And drink. I eat snow. The map shows it was the wrong track. It's possible to reach the mountain from there but with a huge circle. I decide not to go back but continue and see at next crossing what does it look like. Next 4 kms go very fast. The skier comes again, again from the back.
Next sign. At the mountain there's a cafe (m wallet as unnecessary item is on the living room table), to the cafe it's 2,7 km, from there to the mountain 3,3 km and up 2,2 km. Back to Hetta it's 5 km and from there to home about 3 km. It's past two o'clock, I've been going for 12 +something km. I'm hungry, thirsty. But to climb the mountain would be nice. All together would be about 30 km, the end would be in the dark, itäs not very easy to walk with snow shoes etc. Snow storm covers the track in places and it's difiicult to follow it even with day light. A landscape which is all white does not make it easy to judge distances. I continue for a kilometer, then sit under a fir and turn back. I have seen mountains before.
Snow shoes demand a special way of walking, with feet a bit apart. My knees don't like it. Now and then I take them off. In addition they make one boot rub my foot and hurt. If I taken the other track at the beginning, I'd be coming down from the mountain right now... The way back is slow. At some point a Finnish couple catches up with me and they confirm that the other track would of been the shorter one. They followed my footsteps and inquire what time I started walking and how much have I walked already. In te end of our conversation the man asserts that at least I got a lot of fresh air. Indeed! And it actually has been great. If only I would reach back home. There is sauna, food, beer, ...
Strong wind on the lake. From one side the sky is dark blue, from the other greyish yellow. Snow whirls around me.
Total distance was 20,2 km, moving time 6,5 hours.
Sauna is hot! And there's cozy fire in the fire place. Sitting in sauna it's relaxing to hear heavy wind outside around the house. Especially nice is to know how it looked like and felt out there.
Today there are clouds all over and there will be no nightly driving. Tomorrow clear skies are above Sweden.
